Capella skeg cable^

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Mark R
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Capella skeg cable^

Post by Mark R » Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:42 pm

We have an old Capella that I'm considering refurbishing. The skeg cable is a bit screwed up and needs replacing.

How hard is this job on the PITA scale? Please tell me it's simply a case of whipping the current one out and shoving the new one in ... ????
Mark Rainsley
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Zoe Newsam
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Post by Zoe Newsam » Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:35 pm

I know nothing about Capellas, but I've replaced my (Valley) wire several times- easy peasy.

Top tip: before inserting the new wire, coat it in furniture polish and it slides in really easily.
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journeyman
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Post by journeyman » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:08 pm

I recall this thread about skeg cable repair in general.

and cappella specific
Dave Thomas wrote:I have in the past drilled and broken out the epoxy 'plug' in the large-diameter cross-drilling which secures the cable in a P&H skeg, pulled the old cable out, cleaned out the cross-drilling and the cable hole then re-araldited a new cable in. IIRC, I even managed to get the replacement cable out of P&H - can't recall why now, though. But no doubt any source of stranded SS cable of suitable OD and stiffness would do, as others have said.
How about a photo step by step? I for one will be in the same boat (errrr.) at some point as I have a cappella. I am sure others would find it of help also.

E

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Mark R
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Post by Mark R » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:09 pm

Dave Thomas wrote:drilled ... epoxy ... large-diameter ... cross-drilling ... cable hole ... re-araldited.




Aaaaaargh. I'm selling it.
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Cornholio
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Post by Cornholio » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:12 pm

Is it just the inner cable or outer too Mark? I've done my plastic one ok even though the outer seemed to be not just one diameter but several linked with clips etc. I'll try and find the post- my Quest seems to have a completely glassed cable around the slider area in the cockpit so I'm not sure if the composites have a single one.
If it's the inner it can be done with care- should be just a grub screw on the slider that needs undone and the cable pulled through from the skeg end, replace the same and set the slider bfore tightening...can the cable be removed off the skeg itself or is it totally fixed?
If so I think this thread should cover most things....!
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Cornholio
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Post by Cornholio » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:13 pm

Journeyman can type faster than me! D'oh!
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nickcrowhurst
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Post by nickcrowhurst » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:15 pm

P&H supplied me with a new skeg and cable bonded together. It's a couple of minutes to slide the old one out, and feed the new one through. More expensive than just a cable, but a lot simpler. Just make sure you have precisely the right size allen (hex) key to undo the slider knob grub screw. It would be a pain to round out the head of the grub screw. It helps to have an assistant push the cable into the slider box while you tighten the grub screw at the correct point.
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Jim
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Post by Jim » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:29 pm

Mark R wrote:
Dave Thomas wrote:drilled ... epoxy ... large-diameter ... cross-drilling ... cable hole ... re-araldited.




Aaaaaargh. I'm selling it.
Presumably the level of complexity Mark was hoping for involved the words "hammer", "hit" and not a lot of others?

Unfortunately although the job is in practice not as daunting as Dave's instructions suggest (concise by my standards), you will need to first lube the entire cable with special Latvian Goose Grease to ensure trouble free operation in the future, unfortuntely it's as rare as rocking horse poo and costs about the same.

Jim

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Post by The Shark » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:08 pm

I replaced mine with ease with a cable and skeg supplied by P&H. Just slide it through from the bottom.
My only problem now is the metal bar underneath the mechanism. It keeps moving and I have to keep putting expoy glue to hold it in place but it doesn't last long. I wish they had bolts at each end to stop it sliding out.

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Post by Dave Thomas » Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:08 pm

Jim wrote:Unfortunately although the job is in practice not as daunting as Dave's instructions suggest ....
It's almost quicker to do it than to describe it!! But seriously, P&H supply a complete skeg/inner cable assembly as standard - costs more than a length of cable, but really very easy to fit.
Dave Thomas

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MikeB
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Post by MikeB » Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:29 pm

1: Loosen the tiny grub screw in the slider using an appropriate allen key. 2.5 mm will probably be the one yuo need. Do not remove grub screw or you will lose it in the gravel and never find it again.

2: Grasp skeg with appropriate hand for your natural dexterity.

3: Pull skeg down - and keep pulling. You will now see that the skeg pivots on a slot.

4: Remove skeg - for the non-mechanically minded this involves slipping the skeg away from it's pivot bar using the slot.

5: Pull all the cable out.

6: Reverse the above to fit the skeg. Remember to tighten the grub screw!

Mike.
Last edited by MikeB on Wed May 07, 2008 7:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Erling
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Post by Erling » Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:56 pm

nickcrowhurst wrote:Just make sure you have precisely the right size allen (hex) key to undo the slider knob grub screw. It would be a pain to round out the head of the grub screw.
Good advice. I'll add that for these small sizes, use a new hex key for critical jobs as the edges tend to wear. Without a new one at hand, cut a bit off the old one. In the event of a rounded out head, try to tap in a Torx bit of appropriate size.
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adrian j pullin
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Post by adrian j pullin » Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:58 pm

Did mine last week. As described by MikeB. Do raid the cleaning cupboard for the polish to coat the cable before putting it in. On mine, the cable supplied by P&H was rather too long, but it cut easily enough.

This is an oft overlooked advantage of canoe clubs. With a reasonable sized club, you should be able to find someone with better dexterity and mechanical aptitude than a drummer to help if you need it. Or - do they still have metalwork teachers at school?

An essential piece of kit for Capellas unless you particularly like paddling directly in to wind all the time!

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Post by Kayak-Girl83 » Thu Sep 27, 2007 3:02 pm

I had to replace one recently, I bought the length of cable (3mm diameter) from a chandlers (£2.10).
1)I left it fixed at the slider.
2)I got a screwdriver under the hull and between the skeg, levered the skeg off, removing it from the cable.
3) Drilled out the skeg with a 3.5mm drill bit on a pillar drill.
4) Inserted the new cable into the newly enlarged hole and glued into place using araldite.
5) Undid the grub screw from the old cable and removed it from the control tube through the skeg box.
6) Took the new cable and threaded it through the control tube and fixed the slider into place, using the grub screw.
Cost less than £3.00 and approximately 20 minutes (10 minutes longer than using the P&H Repair kit which costs approx £35, calculate the value of your time).

KG-83

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Jim
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Post by Jim » Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:48 pm

Kayak-Girl83 wrote: pillar drill.
Seriously, this is not a hammer, it is a piece of DIY equipment Mark almost certainly doesn't own or know how to use :-)

Even I don't have a pillar drill at home and I have loads of tools and stuff. Mind you I can borrow my boss' mag drill, much better than your pillar nonsense (but won't stick to a plastic skeg very well) ;-)

Jim

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Post by Kayak-Girl83 » Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:49 am

Jim,

I used a pillar drill because I happened to have one available in my father-in laws garage.

Mark should have access to one in the DT dept of his school.

I've also done the same process using a cheap argos drill/driver.

The key is the 3.5mm drill bit.

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Post by MikeB » Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:31 am

Kayak-Girl83 wrote:
2)I got a screwdriver under the hull and between the skeg, levered the skeg off, removing it from the cable.
3) Drilled out the skeg with a 3.5mm drill bit on a pillar drill.KG-83
Hmm - this seems a bit brutal - essentially you've used the slider to retain the wire while you yank it off the skeg I think?

Basically it sounds as though the wire isn't all that well secured in the skeg - yes? So you remove - drill out the hole - refix a new wire with epoxy and replace the whole lot.

I've never fully understood why P&H make their skegs in the way they do - the Valley way seems preferable in terms of ease of replacement.

Mike

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Post by active4seasons » Fri Sep 28, 2007 11:20 am

Could I conduct a straw pole please.
How many of the people who have replaced thier cables have the old system of just a cable at the slider end?
Has anyone tried to convert this system to a rod or sleeve at the slider end and if so where did they get the bits?
I have got three boats with the old system and would like a better solution than just replacing the cable each time it kinks, any advice greatfully received,
Thanks Ollie
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Post by Cornholio » Fri Sep 28, 2007 4:31 pm

I would never use the slider as a form of vice either- what if the cable snapped half way along? I'd take the whole lot out and put the cable in a vice or even knot the thing then stand on the knotted end to pull against with the skeg body wrapped in rags to protect the hands!
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Post by Kayak-Girl83 » Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:05 pm

It sounds a lot more brutal than it is, not that much effort required to remove the cable from the skeg.

I understand your point about the cable snapping, but it's not likely as apart from the kink, it's otherwise in good order.

I've done this on 6 boats now without incident.

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Post by tizereyes » Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:26 pm

Zoe Newsam wrote: Top tip: before inserting the new wire, coat it in furniture polish and it slides in really easily.
This just makes me think of cannisters of pledge. I'm guessing this isn't what you mean?

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MikeB
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Post by MikeB » Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:46 pm

Spray the cable with pledge or similar - wipe off excess - it's the silicon you want . . .

It really is as easy as described. . . .

Mike

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yellofello
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Post by yellofello » Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:06 pm

Its dead easy.

Girlfriend replaced her's in about 45 mins.

Nuff said!

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Post by Davec » Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:39 pm

Skeg Cables??
Never heard of them. My skeg is hydraulic,with no kinky cables to be seen anywhere.

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tizereyes
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Post by tizereyes » Thu May 01, 2008 11:46 pm

Argh! Can anyone tell me what size allen key to use?

The metric set I had didn't fit so bought imperial. 3/32 is tiny bit too small.

Have P&H used some freak size or what?! This is ridiculous!!!

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MikeB
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Post by MikeB » Fri May 02, 2008 7:36 am

Its certainly just a standard size. 3/32nds would be just a tad under 3mm which is ringing a bell but I haven't time now to dig out my tools to check.

Do you have a 3mm key - it should be a very snug fit.

Mike

(EDIT TO ADD: a 2.5 key does it - 3 is too big - lots of key sets dont have that one)

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tizereyes
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Post by tizereyes » Fri May 02, 2008 8:58 am

MikeB wrote:Its certainly just a standard size. 3/32nds would be just a tad under 3mm which is ringing a bell but I haven't time now to dig out my tools to check.

Do you have a 3mm key - it should be a very snug fit.

Mike

(EDIT TO ADD: a 2.5 key does it - 3 is too big - lots of key sets dont have that one)
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Mike Mayberry
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Post by Mike Mayberry » Fri May 02, 2008 7:36 pm

I went out this morning to replace the skeg and cable on a new type Cappella. Having read the posts on here I was armed with a 2.5 and 3mm allen key, just in case.

The whole task took about twenty minutes, as posted previously. The hardest part was trying to find a phillips screwdriver as this was required to undo from the slider, not an allen key! Just my luck! :)

Another tip I was given was to apply a little super glue to the end of the cable before threading so that the strands are less likely catch and run.

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Post by ramshackle » Sun Jul 13, 2008 6:03 pm

Hi there

Sorry to resurrect this again - replacing the cable for the second time this year! The little brass ferrule at the end of the skeg box is missing - I'm wondering how important this is, and whether it's contributed to the cable kinking going so quickly.

Any suggestions what to replace it with, if at all?

Cheers

Gavin

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