seized Lendal paddlok

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alexishc
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seized Lendal paddlok

Post by alexishc »

Can anyone help with some advice and guidance on freeing a frozen Lendal paddlok. I recently purchased a Lendal two piece split. the crank is carbon. The split paddlok works fine but the feather and length paddlok is completely seized.

This is what I've tried so far:
Soaked in fresh water in case it was salt in the thread - no luck
Drenched liberally in penetrating oil - no luck
I've abandoned the Lendal key in favour of a chunkier Allen key with a lot more torque. I've bent this so far I was worried it would snap - in fact I did snap the end off a smaller one.

I'm feeling this is not going to move and my only option is to drill it out - not something I'm looking forward to if there's another option. I really don't want to go too far and drill through the crank.

If it's the only way I'm planning on trying a bolt extractor or left handed turn drill bit and see is this breaks the corrosion seal while drilling out. I'm assuming that once the grub screw is (drilled or otherwise) out the pressure is released and the inner will slide out.

Finally, will the Paddlok housing come out the back of the crank or will I have to find a way to remove the polystyrene inner?

If anyone can provide anything to help - other than leave it alone!, I'd be happy to hear.

Here are a few pictures of the offender:

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Bod Bagby
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by Bod Bagby »

Try vinegar. This will remove salt deposits that water would not touch.

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Jim
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by Jim »

Completely slacken off one of the other paddlok joints, then you can withdraw it (have to push the plastic button down at the same time), and find out how it works before making your final plan of action for the stuck one. I'm not sure if the centre one is identical because on that type they don't seem to have a plastic button but the mechanism should be the same.

You may have better luck using an impact driver to shake the corrosion free - I would be nervous using an old fashioned hit with a big hammer type on a paddle shaft, but a battery or air powered one would probably be fine if you have a suitable hex bit to fit on it (should really be an impact hex bit).

Chris Bolton
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by Chris Bolton »

I've had problems using ordinary Allen keys on a paddlok, as the bit needs to go quite deep to engage fully; it's easy to round the internal hex. Once rounded, drilling it out is the only way. That's tricky as the central metal part is harder than the plastic surround - but provided you don't drill deeper than the shaft diameter, and minimise any damage to the slot, it should be possible. If it's not turning, however, I'd continue trying to use vinegar and penetrating oils to free it. Celtic sell replacement Paddloks - it's worth ordering one so that you can get a good look at how they work.

alexishc
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by alexishc »

Thanks for the replies all. I've been going at it for so long now i am getting close to rounding off the hex,
I'm going to bite the bullet and drill it out tomorrow if it hasn't freed by then. I'll use a pillar drill to make sure I'm going straight down. It'll be a mm at a time and test Got a new unit ordered from Celtic so should hopefully have it by the middle of the week.
Ill keep you posted

alexishc
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by alexishc »

SUCCESS :) It's out with the help of a 4mm drill bit on a pillar drill. New part on the way from Celtic.
Thanks for the advice, it was clear that total destruction of the grub screw was going to be the only way it was ever going to come out.

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MikeB
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by MikeB »

Excellent! A suggestion - apply some Copaslip to the grub screw before you put it in. Do the same with the other Padloks.

alexishc
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by alexishc »

Believe me every grub screw is absolutely slavered in copper slip. I'll also make sure i loosen and retighten both grub screw periodically to make sure they don't seize again.

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Robert Craig
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by Robert Craig »

Anyone understand how Copaslip works? Naively, I think copper + another metal = electrolytic corrosion and seizing. But it works!

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MikeB
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by MikeB »

I rather suspect it's in part because of the various anti-oxidants and corrosion inhibitors they say are part of the mix. And that those of us who routinely work on vehicles will have it in our stash of goodies, usually those bought in the likes of Halfords. On raking around in the Molyslip website, I came across various other specialist anti-seize and assembly products, including one called Graphslip which notes "The non-metallic nature also means that the risk of galvanic corrosion due to the presence of dissimilar metals is eliminated".

We need an engineer!

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Robert Craig
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by Robert Craig »

Did find a tame metallurgist, who said: "Donno why it works. But I use it on my bike all the time".

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Robert Craig
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Re: seized Lendal paddlok

Post by Robert Craig »

Well, I went to the oracle and asked them. Here's the oracle's (Molyslip Atlantic Limited) reply:

"Dear Robert
Thank you for your recent enquiry regarding use of MOLYSLIP COPASLIP, apologies for my late reply which is due to my being away from the office on annual leave.
Molyslip Copaslip is predominantly used in the marine industry due to it’s extreme resistance to water washout, in your application the products grease base will act as an ‘insulator’ between the metals encountered so you should not experience dissimilar metals/galvanic corrosion. However, for critical applications where galvanic corrosion may be encountered we would recommend use of MOLYSLIP ALUMSLIP".

My question envisaged footrests where an aluminium foolplate support passed through a steel bolt in a marine environment. Our club boats ofter suffer from seizure here, even when used only in fresh water.

All very helpful

I need to buy some Copaslip, I guess.

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