Repairs - seam split from deck

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MartinG
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Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by MartinG »

Not sure how or when this happened but I started noticing water in the back hatch. On a calm paddle maybe a cup full, but with surf, following sea, boat upside down for a while or me sitting on the back deck quite a lot. Sometimes a couple of pints.

I put some newspaper under the hatch cover and jetted water from the hose around it. Totally dry. I tested the skeg box, again totally dry. I forced water from the hose through the toggle hole. Dry again. I turned the boat upside down and poked the hose down the back. A steady small stream came from the end of the boat, like a tap turned just beyond dripping. Closer inspection revealed that the outside seam tape and deck had parted company. It's about 4 inches long but water only comes from one end of it, the right in the picture. You can just get a finger nail in but only just.

Image

I thought I could put araldite in the gap and maybe paint some resin on the inside. It's pretty hard to get to inside though and the skeg box is really in the way. Maybe an orang utan could do it but my arms are not that long. So I wondered if superglue might do the trick. It would flow into the gap much better than araldite anyway and there can't be much flex in that part of the boat.

Is that a bad idea? Is there a better way?

Thanks

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Mikebelluk
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by Mikebelluk »

Best off masking the whole area out with a couple of strips of wide masking tape either side of the seam, grinding the loose bit back to sound resin and then rebuilding the seam with new resin, tape and gelcoat.

Alternatively leave it as it is but try to clean up the inside as best you can with some folded emery paper, vacuum + brush all the dust out and inject Sikaflex 291 with a fine trimmed nozzle on the nylon tip to fill the void for a semi permanent repair, but try to get a piece of masking tape along the inside of the seam if you can to stop it going everywhere on the inside. Use some thin wooden wedges to hod the gap open a bit before you inject it. Good luck!

[Superglue depends on moisture to set, and would breakdown in wet conditions.]

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ArnoG
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by ArnoG »

Mike,

That's seems to be the same problem with my boat but to a much smaller extend (I couldn't see anything dripping through the crack but when I filled the hatch with water and food dye some green liquid was seeping). I'm going to try to paddle it with some duct tape on to double check it's correct. After that I may drop it by yours if you've got some free time.
(sorry Martin for highjacking the thread)
Cheers

A.-

PeteW
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by PeteW »

On the principle that if water can get out through the gap so can acetone and layup resin (assuming a polyester layup - if epoxy please subsitute in what follows)

1. check you have sufficient access with a cut off brush to the inside of the seam in the offending area - you will need to stipple hard to get some hydraulic pressure behind it.
2. If you have access then initially stipple some acetone to clean the crack (OK styrene would be great to reactivate the resin but this is becoming a COSH issue) see that it appears outside, then use the brush to clean behind the parted strip from the outside and then leave to evaporate somewhere warm.
3. mask off outside with tape close tot he existing seam
4. mix up some layup resin (colour black if feeling lucky and the external seam is in good condition not cracked) and stipple hard from the inside along the length and a couple on inches each end till you get some seeping outside (hence the masking)
5. wipe off excess and leave to go off

if you are lucky the resin will have bonded the seam back to the hull/deck as well - if not cut that back with a sharp chisel and redo that section as described in a recent thread I think.

I have done this a one 2 or 3 boats prior to replacing the outside seam as earlier attempts just doing the external seams were not always sucessful for long

Cheers

Pete

ian the badger
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by ian the badger »

Out of interest Martin, how old is your boat and who manufactured it? If you don't want to do this publicly, I would be grateful for a pm. Good luck with the repair, Muke Bell's advice is always sound in these matters.

MartinG
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by MartinG »

Thanks for all the suggestions. A bit more info. It seems there is some inside seam tape that's not fully stuck down or fully wetted out. I'd be a bit wary of removing the outer seam as that's sound.

I don't have enough room to get any real downward pressure as the max free space above the gap is about 3 inches dropping to about 2 inches. It's also well beyond my reach. I might try getting resin inside with an extended brush, soaking the area, pushing down the inside seam tape and putting the boat upside down so any flow is into the gap and hopefully out of it. I'll mask the outside either side of the gap, more in hope than expectation.

Ian - you have a PM.

ian the badger
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by ian the badger »

ian the badger wrote:Out of interest Martin, how old is your boat and who manufactured it? If you don't want to do this publicly, I would be grateful for a pm. Good luck with the repair, Muke Bell's advice is always sound in these matters.


Sorry Mike.

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MikeB
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by MikeB »

What is it with not wanting to name the manufacturer? From the look of it, this is either a Valley or a Northshore (which is essentially the same anyway) I suggest. Either way, if its a newish boat, the maker should be fixing it - if it is a Valley or N/Sh boat, then both have a good customer service reputation.

ian the badger
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by ian the badger »

I gave Martin the option, it is up to him whether he chose to name the supplier of his boat.

The issue I have with my Nordkapp is similar, it is carbon construction and the rear compartment leaks. I feel the build quality doesn't get near that of my old standard lay up constructed Nordkapp. Valley used to pressure test all their boats before despatch, based on my experience that is no longer the case.

You are right Mike, Martins boat looks very new, and maybe he should approach the manufacturer. Something I should have done at the time.

MartinG
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by MartinG »

Well spotted MikeB. It's a Valley. The toggles give it away. You know, the ones that occasionally pinch your finger reminding you not to carry it using them. The cockpit label says it's 2008 build and I've had it about 18 months from new. Must have spent quite a while in the shop. It's been stored in a lean-to so it's looking pretty good.

I agree that it should be fixed by the manufacturer but the distances involved are the problem. I bought it from DM in Nottingham and brought it to Ireland myself, I was close by with the car at the time so it was handy. It would be a massive pain and cost to head back over to them or Valley.

So I've managed to get some resin onto the tape and it's now sitting flat and staying down. A water test shows that I've cut the flow and there are only drips coming out. I'll put more resin in when it's dry. I'll put some duct tape over the gap when I head out this weekend.

If I were to fill the gap with black gelcoat I'd need such a small amount, just a couple of drips really and I don't have any. Am I right in thinking that straightforward polyester resin is affected by sunlight so wouldn't do?

No Kayak
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Re: Repairs - seam split from deck

Post by No Kayak »

I'd imagine if you called Pete or Jason at Valley they'd be more than happy to reimburse you for your materials and time, and maybe they'd even offer to pay the cost of bringing your boat back in to look at it? Summit to Sea on Anglesey is now a Valley dealer.

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