Anas Acuta...... again^

Places, technique, kayaks, safety, the sea...
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PeterG
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Post by PeterG » Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:39 pm

I weigh 68kg and easily fit in camping kit, 10days food and 6-10l water. The boat still has some freeboard and handles very well.

I have a new one with the standard hatches. Basically the food and water fit in the day hatch and behind the seat, tent, fishing rod and sleeping bag and spare clothes to the rear and the other bits and pieces in the forward hatch. If I am really short of space I put a dry bag in front of my feet inside the cockpit.

For day paddling, I use foam blocks held in place with straps attached to the front bolt on the footrest rail to rest my feet. This reduces the volume for re-entry rolling. If I have to use this space I put back the footpegs and strap in the dry bag.

I used to have an older model with retro-fitted hatches and had to tie string to items pushed into the rear through the small round hatch or else they were impossible to retrieve. The easier access compensates for the loss of space due to the skeg box.

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MikeB
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Post by MikeB » Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:02 pm

Owen wrote: Do you mean like this:
Image
Accepting that it's been removed, this is still a useful pic to illustrate the early foot rest arrangements in many boats - the quick release bracket allows the foot bar is secured under the "L" shaped flange bit when pressing against it while seated in the boat. The flange looks like it's broken in this picture though?

The idea was that is your feet slipped past it, you could pull back against it and it would pivot forward allowing your feet to slide back.

Do you still have it Owen? Those safety / quick release brackets are as rare as hen's teeth.

Regs, Mike.

Owen
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Post by Owen » Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:12 pm

Do you still have it Owen? Those safety / quick release brackets are as rare as hen's teeth.
Regs, Mike.
Sorry Mike I didn't keep it. The L-shapped bracket was broken - maybe because it was fitted incorrectly - the nut were all badly corroded and the bar snapped when I pulled on it.

rockhopper
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Post by rockhopper » Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:41 pm

Do you mean like this:
Ah yes... exactly like that (but without the bar). Wasn't the structral stability affected in anyway by the removal of the front pillar Owen?

Rog.

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al27
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Post by al27 » Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:09 pm

Do you still have it Owen? Those safety / quick release brackets are as rare as hen's teeth.
I still have mine Mike; do you want it when I get around to changing the footrest?

Al.

29er
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Thanks

Post by 29er » Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:16 pm

Thank you very much for answering my question Al, Owen and Peter G, your comments made me even more exited about the AA. Speed is no big issue with this kayak (but I like fast boats also), I have an Struer Cleaver X racing K1 that I enjoys as an anti-geriatric exercise when the need for speed takes me, and I also enjoys my Nordkapp for long, fast trips:)

My AA will mostly be used for daytripping, playing and to learn greenland style rolling - My brother has also ordered one, and we both got rather entusiastic when we watched the playboating sequence with Warren Williamson on Tits4 - Warren playing in an white AA - what a beautiful kayak:)

Thanks again,

Harald

Owen
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Post by Owen » Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:07 pm

rockhopper wrote:
Do you mean like this:
Ah yes... exactly like that (but without the bar). Wasn't the structral stability affected in anyway by the removal of the front pillar Owen?

Rog.
Roger,

That pillar was so rotten it wasn't doing anything but I haven't noticed any change in structral stability. At the moment I have a big airbag in there which gives it some strength. I would think that once the bulkhead is in it will be far stronger than it was.

Owen
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Re: Thanks

Post by Owen » Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:22 pm

29er wrote: - My brother has also ordered one, and we both got rather entusiastic when we watched the playboating sequence with Warren Williamson on Tits4 - Warren playing in an white AA - what a beautiful kayak:)

Thanks again,

Harald
Have a look here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ai9F3ja ... space.com/

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MikeB
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Re:

Post by MikeB » Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:53 pm

al27 wrote:
Do you still have it Owen? Those safety / quick release brackets are as rare as hen's teeth.
I still have mine Mike; do you want it when I get around to changing the footrest?

Al.
Hi Al - no, but I would apprecaite a pic and I'll Almanac it - it comes up as a query every now and again. But, I see oceanscout would like a pic too!! See this post

(Owen - thanks to you too)

Regs, Mike.

rockhopper
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by rockhopper » Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:22 pm

Been a while but I have finally got around to starting the restoration of the Anas.
Stripped off the paint on the deck and also on one side of the hull so far. Used Removal 620 which lifted some of it but not all so I ended up resorting to a metal scraper and sandpaper. The good thing is that the paint has preserved the gelcoat in better condition than expected and I have decided to save the gel coat rather than repaint. I did think that someone had cut a 4" hole on the back deck but it turns out that they had just painted over a circular sticker about the boat being manufactured by the British Canoe Association (or something similar). It also had rectangular Anas Acuta stickers on the front and rear decks although none of these were in good enough condition to warrant keeping. Hot water from a kettle was the best way to soften them up and then gently lift them with a Stanley blade.
I also tried removing the footrest slats, initially by crawling headfirst into the hull with a Dremel and cutting disc but after 10 minutes work I had progressed about 1cm so gave up on that idea. Then spent a further 5 minutes trying to reverse back out of the hull....very embarrassing!!!
In the end I used a wide sharp chisel to skim away the layers bonding them to the hull and then a set of molegrips to pull them off with a bit of brute force. Managed to get both off in about 10 minutes and there was no damage to the hull whatsoever (and I did not wedged again!). I have picked up a set of Yakima foot rest so will be installing them soon.
It also definitely needs a rubbing strip around the seam as it has taken quite a few knocks and had various (multi-coloured) repairs carried out along the edges. I think that should make sure the seam is well sealed and watertight and hide a multitude of sins into the bargain.
It is amazing how much more elegant she looks with the yellow and white paint removed. Does seem to have really brought out the sharp lines. Once I have progressed a bit further I will post some pictures.

Rog.

Katiee
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Katiee » Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:54 pm

Hello hello...any sea kayaking enthusiasts as sad as me on a saturday night?!
Those safety / quick release brackets are as rare as hen's teeth.
This thread is about 4 years old, but was wondering if anyone knew where to get hold of these little bits of metal for an old style footbar for an anas acuta (or probably any original valley boat)

It is pictured in the first diagram here.

http://www.kayarchy.co.uk/html/01equipm ... tfootbrace

Cheers

dwrgi
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by dwrgi » Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:02 pm

Why would you. Fit Yakimas. Million times better foot rest.

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Jim
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Jim » Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:19 pm

Ahhh, the old swing out failsafe footrest (that generally used to seize up and not swing out).

If you are going to keep the footrest your best bet would be to make a part, there are a few ways you could do it.

- get a friend with a vice and a hammer to bend a piece of steel (or 304 stainless steel) flat bar to suit - drill the hole at low speed with plenty of lubricant and a sharp drill bit, especially if you use stainless.

- use 2 (or more) pieces of flat bar, one long bit for the top and one or more shorter bits as spacers. Again you will need to drill holes.

- use a chunk of strong plastic about 1/2" thick (nylon or acetal would be good but you could probably use a chopping board), cut a rectangle out and then carefully saw a bit out to fit the end of the footrest bar. Drilling plastic is much easier than steel.

- you could also use a decent piece of wood in a similar way to the plastic, some strong hardwood rather than a bit of pine....

Personally I'd probably just remove the bar and carve a block of minicell foam to use as a footrest (I did for my sea king) if I was going to use the boat seriously.
I am actually fixing up an old snipe at the moment - similar footrest except both ends are bolted (and the bolts are rusted solid), I wasn't planning to do any more than renew the bolts, mind you, given the purpose I have for it maybe I should convert it to fail safe...

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Simongelder
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Simongelder » Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:15 pm

Wildwater racing kayaks have foot bars glassed into the hulls - this is recommended in the current UK wildwater racing manual. In a long kayak without a rudder this allows variable placement of the feet along the bar to aid turning. This can be useful sometimes and can relieve long sessions of edging. It is nice to be able to move the feet into the centre when going for an efficient, knees up, marathon style forward stroke. With sliding footrests you are limited to having your feet out at the sides all the time. My renovation project 1980s Nordkapp has an old style footrest arrangement although the bar was missing when I got it. I made a new footrest using a couple of sections of wood glued together to give a more comfortable 'platform' to press the feet against than a round bar. I noted that the old NZ Sissons website offered various foot plates and bars on sea and adventure racing kayaks rather than Yakima style where your feet are stuck in one position. I have never experienced or heard of a situation where footrests have failed outside of WW paddling so wonder how necessary the fix at one end bar and clip at other end arrangement is.

By the way, I think I actually have the original plastic piece which you are asking about making. I have no intention of using this so will have a rummage in my garage and try to find it if you want.

Simon

Katiee
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Katiee » Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:16 pm

Thankyou so much dwrgi and Jim for your replies!

Dwrgi- in response to your question it's because I'm trying to do it cheaply and don't really have the time to rip out the original rails and replace them. However, I may just carve a foam block as Jim suggests-this sounds more comfy and possibly easier?!

Jim- Thanks for the detail- it's really helpful. Currently, I've cut a metal bar to the right length but haven't dare flatten the ends yet incase it just cracks. Actually, I have no idea if it's aluminium or stainless steel..oops. The original plan was just to drill 2 holes and then put 2 screws and wing nuts in without flattening the ends. I then found a website explaining the failsafe thing and thought better of it....Will let you know what actually happens tomorrow, making a part just like you said seems fairly sensible. :)

Katiee
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Katiee » Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:22 pm

Hi Simon, only just seen your reply.

I think the failsafe part is designed so that if the sea kayak crashes or there's some other daring accident and both feet end up further forwards than the bar, then one side of the bar is not locked, it will swing towards the stern. Normal paddling would just mean you're putting pressure on the bar and this metal/plastic piece. It is great to have a full bar so you can move your feet around :) Not sure about knees up with an ocean cockpit though.

Chris Bolton
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Chris Bolton » Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:27 pm

Actually, I have no idea if it's aluminium or stainless steel..oops
Since you didn't mention it being difficult to cut, it's probably aluminium. Is it dull (Al) or shiny (SS), light (Al) or heavy (SS) ? Does it scratch easily (Al) with a steel point like a screwdriver? If you have any spare on the length you cut it from, cut off a short bit to try flattening it!

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Simongelder
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Simongelder » Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:07 pm

By the way, when the weather is cold, unless you have relatively thick soled footwear, bare aluminium can make your feet feel very cold. That's one of the reasons why I have gone with wood for now - although the main reason was that it is what I had in the garage to get me on the water quick!

The Nordkapp has a high foredeck and the knee grips are foam blocks quite high up and in the middle. Therefore a K1 style fire ward stroke is quite easy. I have padded it out a bit so it is note quite so knees together for when I get out onto rough water when the bulkheads are fitted.

If I find the old attachment tomorrow you can have it if you want.

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nickcrowhurst
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I have these parts.

Post by nickcrowhurst » Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:29 pm

Katiee, I have the Failsafe cross bar, and the gadget into which the tube slots, from either my 1970s Anas Acuta or my Nordkapp HM.( I can't remember which.) The total length of the tube is 41.5 cm, and the slotted part, a hard white plastic, is stamped VCP (Valley Canoe Products).
Image

If you want any or all of these, PM me your details and I will mail them to you.
Nick.

Katiee
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Re: Anas Acuta...... again^

Post by Katiee » Tue Nov 04, 2014 10:38 pm

Thanks so much Nick,
I think I've fixed it- the pieces all seem really solid still. Just need to add some foam pipe lagging to stop my feet freezing and sticking to the bar over winter! Cheers for all your advice.

Can't add a photo as I don't have a photobucket account- sorry
Katie

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