Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

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Chris Bolton
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Post by Chris Bolton » Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:38 pm

To remove unwanted footrest ledges, I've usually had success using a sharp chisel to lift the corner of the glassfibre patch away from the hull, then grip it with pliers and pull it off. Saves a lot of dust! Obviously, it depends how solid the hull is, but provided you pull carefully and stop if the hull is too stressed, it doesn't harm to try.

Chris

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Electric pump

Post by nickcrowhurst » Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:46 pm

For the past year or so I've been fiddling around with electric pumping systems. I used the usual Rule pump and 12 volt battery solution, but there are three aspects of my system that may be of interest to someone:

1. The non-return valve I fitted in the outlet pipe only drops output by about 10%. A gallon is pumped out in 13 seconds with the valve, and in about 12 seconds without. I conclude that it is worth having the valve.

2. The usual 19mm (3/4 inch) flexible plastic pipe, if warmed in hot water, will slip over the ends of standard 22mm copper solder plumbing connectors. This is a convenient, smooth flowing and economical way of making a 90 degree bend, which I could not find in plastic.

3. I've fitted a magnetic reed switch actuated by a magnet in a standard manual skeg slider in the usual position, on the joint between hull and deck, by the cockpit. This magnet affects a compass only when less than one foot (300mm) distant. As a VHF radio, a battery watch, and a PLB also affect a compass, this causes me little concern. Certainly my deck compass is well out of range. I use a hand-bearing compass for pre-planning on charts, but head the bow at a target when on the water, and read off the bearing from the deck compass. I conclude that my deliberately small magnet is a reasonable solution.
Nick.

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Fitting a tapered keel strip

Post by nickcrowhurst » Sun Jul 05, 2009 4:18 pm

I decided that an elegant beauty like the HM deserved a keel strip that was tapered at both ends where any damage would be on the narrow edge of the stem and stern, but that was wide at mid-length where the hull was nearly flat, and damage would not be so localised. I fitted a 100mm wide strip of woven glass cloth (twice the normal width) but tapered it to less than a third of that in order to match the expected wear pattern. There is good information on fitting a keel strip in the almanac, and also here: http://www.atlantickayaktours.com/pages ... ip-1.shtml
but you will notice the square ends of the keel strip. It is simple to paint some black gelcoat at each end to ease the chopped-off look, but I also wanted the laminate cloth to be tapered.
Tapering the cloth before laminating would have resulted in much fraying of cloth and temper, so I carefully masked off the final desired tapered shape, and masked off the whole hull with scrap pieces of PVC tarpaulin. I then rolled on a thin coat of clear resin, and rolled and laminated the wide cloth over the whole area, overlapping the cloth widely over the masking at both ends. After about an hour, when the laminate was "green", I ran a stanley knife blade along the inside edge of the masking tape, easily visible through the clear resin, and peeled away the excess laminate and the masking. A couple of hours later I again masked up about 2mm outside the keel strip, and brushed on a liberal coat of black pigmented resin. I removed the masking when the resin gelled, but before it hardened. I used resin throughout, rather than gelcoat, on the highly technical basis that I had a can of resin in the workshop, but no gelcoat.

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Pav
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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by Pav » Sun Jul 05, 2009 10:40 pm

Interested to find this thread as I have aquired an old sea kayak. I think it is a HM? by the keel, but unsure as unlike others it has a pump fitted infront of the cockpit.

The pump is in working order, so considering leaving it fitted at this time, but see that most remove it on old HMS? Why?

I only got the kayak the other day and by chance today came by a chandlers in paignton selling 2 pack boat paint for £10, rather than £30 - £40 which I know it usually sells for. As it was red I thought I'd grab a tin whilst I saw it as I had already been considering painting the top half of the kayak.

Anyway the hull (white) is poor! Beyond any tarting up with paints, and anyway I figure its pretty pointless painting the hull of a boat. I would prefer to re apply a white gell coat, but I have not done anything on this scale. I have used gell coat to repair kayaks in the past, but never considered painting a complete hull. Is it a practical method to restore the hull. Any tips?

I'm trying to keep expenditure to the minimum as I know renovations can be more expensive than a good 2nd hand boat. As I have the paint now for a bargin £10 I am after 2 rubber covers for the hatches (Valley) as the current ones have been torn - anyone got any old / spare ones to sell cheap? and eventually a spray deck!

I am guessing the 1st step will be to remove all parts from the deck and start rubbing down surfaces with abrasive papers.

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MikeB
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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by MikeB » Sun Jul 05, 2009 11:07 pm

Pav wrote:Interested to find this thread as I have aquired an old sea kayak. I think it is a HM? by the keel, but unsure as unlike others it has a pump fitted infront of the cockpit.
Later Nordys were fitted with the foredeck pump or foot pump.
The pump is in working order, so considering leaving it fitted at this time, but see that most remove it on old HMS? Why?
Often because they broke - but usually because the pumps mounted behind the cockpit are an ansolute pita to operate and not wonderfully effective.
I only got the kayak the other day and by chance today came by a chandlers in paignton selling 2 pack boat paint for £10, rather than £30 - £40 which I know it usually sells for. As it was red I thought I'd grab a tin whilst I saw it as I had already been considering painting the top half of the kayak.

Anyway the hull (white) is poor! Beyond any tarting up with paints, and anyway I figure its pretty pointless painting the hull of a boat. I would prefer to re apply a white gell coat, but I have not done anything on this scale. I have used gell coat to repair kayaks in the past, but never considered painting a complete hull. Is it a practical method to restore the hull. Any tips?]
Well, we have the tale of a Sea King which was painted, detailed here - not wanting to put you off, the very last post in the thread comments that the paint isn't adhering too well - - -
I'm trying to keep expenditure to the minimum as I know renovations can be more expensive than a good 2nd hand boat. As I have the paint now for a bargin £10 I am after 2 rubber covers for the hatches (Valley) as the current ones have been torn - anyone got any old / spare ones to sell cheap? and eventually a spray deck!

I am guessing the 1st step will be to remove all parts from the deck and start rubbing down surfaces with abrasive papers.
A good starting point - have a look at the thread I've linked to - rubbing compounds seem to be the way to go. Keep us posted, and if you ahve pics of the project it'd be great to see them.

There's a 9 in VCP hatch cover on eBay at the moment - might be waht you need?

Have you seen the Nordkapp article in the Almanac?

Mike.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by Tamar » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:26 pm

Nick - have read your posts with a warm glow of nostalga as I had a similar vintage HM.

The picures look great - nice job.

In terms of down wind rides I understand that some HM owners cut varying degrees of the skeg off as it was a bit too effective an holding them on track, never did this myself though, but one of my mates did I might be able to get him to provide some info if you are considering doing it.

I bought new deck hatches for my boat as the 'bezel' ring had stripped its threads, I also had the deck pump behind the cockpit but to be honest I never used it. If you have got the ocean cockpit I may have a spare spraydeck in the loft if it's of any use.

Stability wise I found I adapted to mine pretty quickly although I was mostly paddling in the estuary, I changed to a Bucaneer many years ago which is a toatlly differnet kettle of fish, but the friend who modded his knordkapp did come across my old boat about 6 months after I changed it. It was being swum to shore by the poorly equipped new owner in the middle of the Tamar (he actually thought it was me swimming initially).

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HM with a Kari-Tek skeg?

Post by nickcrowhurst » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:07 pm

Has anyone sliced the fixed skeg off a Nordkapp HM and replaced it with a Kari-Tek skeg? The edge and sweep technique on the HM has killed my shoulder (2 years slow recuperation from shoulder surgery so far), and the modification could, if done well (Zen and the art of HM maintenance), be an elegant solution.
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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by Big Ade » Sat Jun 12, 2010 10:37 pm

nickcrowhurst wrote:Has anyone sliced the fixed skeg off a Nordkapp HM and replaced it with a Kari-Tek skeg?
I used to see a lot of HM paddlers dragging their boats up sandy beaches on the skegs, this used to result in a less severe shape.
Once you reach optimal, you just have to carry it again like everyone else.
Although now your shoulder damage is done, how much effect rounding off the skeg would have is anyones guess.

Most of the modifed HMs I have ever seen have been modified with a C-trim rudder.
A skeg in addition to the HM shape probarbly wouldn't work, and looking in side of the (HM with C-trim) Nordy hanging in the garage, I would estimate that you would have to cut/ replace about 4-6 incnes out of the hull along the skeg line to get the origional HS shape(we had one of those too, and it worked well with a homemade drop down skeg).
The shape of the HS hull being much lower volume, if you were able to put the one inside the other in a virtual reality sort of way, would mean a truly huge amount of the HM hull being cut away to get back to the origonal Nordy shape which actually needed a skeg.

Sorry to be negative Nick, but I think a change of boat, or a C trim may be your best bet.
Although, as ever on this forum, I am expecting to be proved wrong

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by nickcrowhurst » Sat Jun 12, 2010 11:33 pm

Big Ade wrote:Sorry to be negative Nick, but I think a change of boat, or a C trim may be your best bet.
Although, as ever on this forum, I am expecting to be proved wrong
A change of boat? That's a plan. I confess we currently own twenty three boats, but I am looking for an Anas Acuta to renovate. If one fitted a ruddder to an HM without removing the fixed skeg, would not the lee helm, which is the issue, just get worse? My normal steed is a well- balanced NDK Explorer LV with a Kari-Tek Hydro-Skeg. I would just like to improve the balance of the HM, surely one of the most beautiful sea kayaks.
The Kari-Tek skeg is such an improvement over all others I've used.
Nick.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by Big Ade » Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:08 pm

Nick, I think thats the best reply I've seen yet. I had a great laugh, not at your expense I hasten to add, but 23 Boats? Fantastic.

That's a serious kayak habit you got there....
Do you have a HS in your fleet to test against?
From what I recall, Lee helm in a Nordy will be affected by the bow as well as the stern.
Perhaps it could be worth doing a bit of experimentation forward and backwards paddling in a crosswind to check how much lee helm you have that can be fixed by triming the skeg.

On our Nordy ( which I don't paddle due to being rather too large), the C trim has been fitted exactly where the HM skeg rises vertically. The 'tang' having been removed so the boat is effectively lengthened proportionatley at the bows, although shorter overall.
I've softened the curve up to the base of the C-trim so it's around a 2" radius.
You're probarbly right in that a straight, 0 degrees, rudder will make the lee helm worse, but you can put up to 40 degrees rudder on.
Although this does cause quite a bit of drag.

You're also right, they are gorgeous boats. My Dream boat would be a 20' Nordy.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by nickcrowhurst » Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:48 pm

Big Ade wrote:That's a serious kayak habit you got there....
Do you have a HS in your fleet to test against?
Ade, no HS, (yet), but you're right about the habit. My only excuse is that if all 6 granddaughters want to paddle at the same time as the offspring and their spice (only kidding), then I'm prepared. It's not really a good enough excuse to justify the family fleet:
Explorer LV, standard Explorer, Nordkapp HM, Tahe Greenland, two Wilderness Systems Northstar doubles, Capella RM Mk1, Capella RM Mark2, Perception Mirage, Perception Dancer , Perception Dancer, Dagger CFS, Rotobat, Necky Eliza, two Perception Arcadias, a S.O.T as a kiddies play platform, touring canoe, Eventide 26 (self built from recycled timber) plus tender and dinghy, National 12 (own design and build), skin-on-frame Greenland kayak for a granddaughter built to Tom Yost Sea Pup design from workshop scraps.
On edit, I've just remembered a 24th. Erindors and I normally paddle together in our latest beauty, a Current Designs Double Vision kevlar and glass lightweight double.
In my defence, I run a 20 year old diesel Land Rover, never buy clothes (my son is good for hand-me-downs), last bought a suit in 1968 because I had to for a job, never owned a television, and my idea of a good time is a handful of salted pistachios.
Back to the shed for more work on that skeg.........
Nick.

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Hasis
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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by Hasis » Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:06 am

You didn't used to do a bit of cross-country running as well did you Nick? I'm just wondering if you're the same NC that I remember from my dim and distant past.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by tannys » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:14 am

nickcrowhurst wrote:never owned a television,
Nick.
Thought it was babies people collected with no TV not kayaks :)

Hows the Arcadia's? the 2 I had picked out as boats to buy was the Arcadia and the Carolina, the Carolina 14 came up for sale first locally (second hand) so that's what I ended up with
"Paddle solo, sleep tandem"

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by nickcrowhurst » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:33 am

Hasis wrote:You didn't used to do a bit of cross-country running as well did you Nick? I'm just wondering if you're the same NC that I remember from my dim and distant past.
Yes, that's me. I had to stop the cross-country racing and mountain running when my left knee wore out. I very much miss the running. When you get really running fit, after years of daily training, so running is as natural as walking, padding through woodlands with the birds, foxes and badgers for company in the very early morning summer mist is a breath-taking experience.
Nick.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by nickcrowhurst » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:39 am

tannys wrote:Hows the Arcadia's? the 2 I had picked out as boats to buy was the Arcadia and the Carolina, the Carolina 14 came up for sale first locally (second hand) so that's what I ended up with
The youngsters paddle them, and seem to have fun, but I can't say more than that as I don't paddle them. The Carolina is certainly popular round our way.
Nick.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by tannys » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:49 am

nickcrowhurst wrote:
tannys wrote:Hows the Arcadia's? the 2 I had picked out as boats to buy was the Arcadia and the Carolina, the Carolina 14 came up for sale first locally (second hand) so that's what I ended up with
The youngsters paddle them, and seem to have fun, but I can't say more than that as I don't paddle them. The Carolina is certainly popular round our way.
Nick.
Yes it's a good kayak, still may get an Arcadia though as might get one for my partner/son
"Paddle solo, sleep tandem"

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by SteelRiverRunner » Fri Jun 18, 2010 2:14 pm

Good to see this is still running; not been out in my HM for over a year, thought I needed some inspiration and lo/behold up popped this thread!

My HM has an aftermarket electric pump fitted behind the seat, I've never used it - but then I've only ever capsized on flat water :bangshead:
If there was a place called Huckenbove, would you want to be Lord of it?

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HMM?

Post by nickcrowhurst » Fri Aug 06, 2010 12:04 pm

Image

Yesterday I made the big decision, sliced off the HM's fixed skeg and fitted a Kari-Tek wire skeg. When I've taken it out on the water I'll decide if more needs to come off.
Nick.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by Big Ade » Sat Aug 07, 2010 2:00 pm

I have to say, given my previous posts, that does look great.
I think it looks about halfway between the two hulls from the photo above.
I hope it works a treat.
Let us know how it paddles, please.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by MikeB » Sat Aug 07, 2010 3:46 pm

Nice. Nick, I suspect there's rather more to that bit of work than is evidenced by your comments - more detail / pics? In particular, what was involved in fitting the K/tec skeg??

Mike.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by pby5a » Sat Aug 07, 2010 4:50 pm

Wauw, I'm very curious how you like it.
Onno

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by nickcrowhurst » Sat Aug 07, 2010 7:32 pm

I'm grateful for the interest shown, and we owe a lot to MikeB for all his work on this forum and the almanac. He is a great encouragement to us all to continue posting.
This morning I took the HMM out for it's maiden voyage. I couldn't persuade the wind to blow more than about 10-15 knots, but the modifications are certainly a great improvement. I could paddle hard in a straight line, beam on to the wind, stop paddling, and trim the skeg so that the kayak travelled straight, neither weather nor lee-cocking. Bow rudders worked much better. I didn't need the radical edge previously required, which was just as well as I'd left my spraydeck at home........ Am I alone in such stupidity?
Of course, the bow rudder swings the bow mainly, so a better test is the stern rudder, trying to swing the modified stern across. These were easier than before the mods, but still not sufficiently effective in my book, even with edging. Neither were low brace turns, although they were better than before. I've therefore decided to trim another half inch or so off the stern in a fair curve, and then try it again. I'll eventually post measurements.
Mike has rumbled me about the work involved. Fitting the skeg box into the sharply V-eed stern of the Nordkapp with its low deck is tricky. I've fitted four of the Kari-Tek skegs, including a Hydro-Skeg, and this was the most awkward. I'll prepare a post on that later on in the week. I'm now concentrating on modifying the cockpit of my Explorer LV for a trip next Thursday round Lands End during the biggest tide of the month, but that's another story.
Nick.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by MikeB » Sat Aug 07, 2010 7:45 pm

Thanks for the kind words - but it's the contributors who make "this place" what it is and who add to the knowledge base. I hope you're ok with this, but I've added that pic to the Nordkapp article.

Great work - it would be wonderful to have the details of what the work entailed. Mike.

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HMMM?

Post by nickcrowhurst » Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:17 am

Image

I've taken another slice of 30mm off the stern. The original slice was 60mm. This second slice cut through to the inside of the hull, so extra work was needed to repair this. I'm aching all over from Thursday's paddle, so I'll report on performance some time next week, and describe fitting the skeg. Nick.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by pby5a » Sun Aug 15, 2010 1:07 pm

I just send you a pm with questions you half already answered in here :-)

Look forward to read more about this project. For obvious reasons.
Onno

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Trial paddle of the HMMM.

Post by nickcrowhurst » Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:26 pm

Today it was blowing southerly Force 5 to 6, occasionally 7, and under the Tamar Bridge the wind accellerated to 30 knots and ripped into the weather-going tidal stream. It was a good day to test the 90mm skeg removal.
In short, the modification is all I wished. I could turn into the wind with the skeg up, and turn away from it from head-to-wind to dead down-wind with the skeg down. With the skeg up, and not paddling, the kayak lay beam-on to the wind. I headed the boat on all points of the compass, and was able to balance the boat by adjusting the skeg, and without edging. The Nordkapp seemed to turn better by paddling firmly forward, harder on one side, rather than using reverse sweeps. She likes to move fast.
Job done.
I'll soon post about fitting a Kari-Tek skeg.
Here's a photo to show where the measurements where taken.

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by MikeB » Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:53 pm

Looking forward to that write-up on this conversion!

On a slightly related note, tips on turning can be found in this article from Sea Kayaker mag, and which tie in nicely to Nick's comments about use of the skeg.

Mike.

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Fitting a Kari-Tek skeg

Post by nickcrowhurst » Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:37 pm

For me, the Kari-Tek system has revolutionised the installation of adjustable skegs by the amateur enthusiast with limited experience of complex GRP projects. Previously it was a daunting task to install a skeg and skeg box, involving sourcing a variety of fittings and materials, after designing an efficient leak-proof system that could, for example, be removed without leaving a hole in the bottom of the hull. The Kari-Tek kits avoid all this, and the high aspect ratio profiled blade has proved totally effective in three years use in my NDK Explorer LV. Very detailed installation instructions for each type of skeg actuation system are available via these links:
http://www.karitek.co.uk/pdf/skegsystem ... _instr.pdf
http://www.karitek.co.uk/pdf/skegsystem ... _instr.pdf
http://www.karitek.co.uk/pdf/skegsystem ... _instr.pdf
There are also instructions available from Kari-Tek for a rope adjusting system, but few people have selected this option.
Although the instructions are highly detailed, after installing four of these skegs I can pass on a few tips that might ease the project:
1. The skeg box has a temporary wooden insert to hold the opening slot straight during installation. It's worth removing this timber prior to installation and sighting along it to check for straightness. The last one I fitted came with a knotted piece of timber bent like a banana, presumably during storage in a dry atmosphere. I replaced it with a straight piece of scrap timber.
2. To cut out the slots for the skeg box and manual slider (named as the glide box in the instructions) a Dremel or electric jigsaw are recommended in the instructions. However, a much better tool, now recommended by Kari-Tek, is a 4.5-inch electric angle grinder fitted with a 1mm thick general-purpose cutting disc. I use the discs from Screwfix, ref. 48992-12, at £8.37 for a pack of five. Only one is required to complete the installation. I also used this tool to remove the original HM fixed skeg. Using an angle grinder to cut curves is possible if the blade is not allowed to pass deeply into the work.
3. To cut the slots, I draw the outline on the outside of the hull around the boxes with a pencil, and drill a 3mm hole at each corner of the slots. I then join these up by cutting inside the lines with the angle grinder. Final adjustment of the slots to ensure a sliding fit can be achieved with a coarse hand rasp. Careful work here means that I don't need any gelcoat and pigment to repair damage to the outside of the hull. This reduces expense and time.
4. The instructions are for polyester resin throughout. I have successfully used epoxy resin for one installation, as I had some left from a previous job.
5. The instructions are to install the skeg box with resin and fibreglass mat. I do my installations in two stages. For the first stage I thicken some resin with microfibres to a soft peanut-butter consistency, and bed the entire skeg box in a thick coating of that, after wetting out the surfaces with unthickened resin. I do this to give a solid contact bed between skeg box and hull, and to avoid pure resin dripping out through the hull slot before the resin has gelled. I smear a generous loading of thickened resin over the skeg box after brushing on ABS cement, as described in the instructions. When this has set I apply the glass cloth and resin as instructed. I use 4% catalyst to speed up the reactions, so after 30 minutes I can continue with the next stage. Applying strips of glass tape neatly around the skeg box is tricky. In the most recent fitting, into my Nordkapp HM, the low stern deck, combined with a small round rear hatch, meant that I could either just see the task, or just reach in to do it, but not both. I made a very poor job of this part. Glass tape has to be folded along its length and installed by feel with a resin brush. It may be that using adhesive tape or 5-minute epoxy to hold the dry tape in position before applying resin would be an improvement. Suggestions are welcome.
6. If installing a wire system, cutting the wire can be tricky. A really good set of wire cutters might work, but I have more luck with a sharp bolster chisel and two heavy hammers. One lump hammer rests sideways on one thigh, and the other hammer hits the bolster chisel. One hard whack with a really sharp chisel gives a neat cut. (Smearing some 5-minute epoxy into the last half-inch of wire will stop the wire unravelling. Make sure the epoxy doesn’t increase the diameter of the wire, as this might prevent removal of the wire. The 5-minute epoxy can be successfully applied either before or after cutting the wire.) Three hands would be useful for chopping the wire, but two suffice. This is the method I've copied from watching a professional rigger. The job has to be done in mid-air, as one is cutting a short end protruding at the glide-box.
7. When drilling the 6mm holes through the top corners of the bulkheads to take the actuating tubes, one has to remember that kayaks have pointy ends. If you drill right in the corners, particularly while facing the stern, the drill bit can emerge through the side of the hull. The instructions print this warning in bold type. Just don't ask me why I repeat this warning.
8. The skeg box is common to all the systems, so upgrade kits are available to change, for example, to the superb Hydro-Skeg from the wire skeg.
9.The wire skeg uses flexible stainless wire, so when running aground with the skeg down, I've never had a problem with a bent wire, unlike others I've misused.
11. The skeg can be removed by releasing three setscrews, without affecting the water tightness of the hull.

Kari-Tek offers a fitting service from about £100. If you have any doubts about fitting the skeg system yourself, I regard that fitting cost to be a bargain. I have no connection with Kari-Tek. I just think it's a brilliant system, and MikeB asked me to describe the installation. Please post here if you want more details or photos.
Nick.

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MikeB
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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by MikeB » Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:57 pm

Great write up Nick - very useful.

On the subject of cutting the skeg wire, I've never had any successs with using the bolster / chisel combination and reckon the best way is a proper bowden-cable cutter. Not having one of those, I found an angle grinder to work exceedingly well!

A Dremel (with a cutting disc) would do it too - I have also learned the hard way to protect any surrounding materials with something as the sparks from a cutting disc are very hot!

Mike

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Re: Renovating an old Nordkapp HM^

Post by wideblueyonder » Sat Aug 21, 2010 3:54 pm

Although by no means step by step, there are a few photos of a Hydro-Skeg being fitted on this post. I had the Skeg sorted for me by an approved Kari-Tek fitter. May be of interest.

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