Boat Repair If You Dare

Inland paddling
Roboater
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:37 pm
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Post by Roboater »

Heyup everyone.
I'm really loving all the advice re plates, studs, bolts, nuts and welding.
My welding/pattern making buddies are looking in on it too and are having great fun watching us paddlers trying to work it out using whatever informed opinion we can cobble together between us.

Seriously though....there's obviously a load of you out there who know what you're talking about and I am very grateful for your time and input.

I reckon i'm going to stick to the plan of replacing the aluminium plate on the outside with a stainless steel version with studs welded to it.This should give the degree of durability i'm looking for, plus the reduced profile of a quarter of an inch as opposed to the extra depth of fourteen dome topped bolts, which isn't a huge amount but is still an untidy finish and does catch from time to time.

Very interested to hear the results of others.Ta very much to all.

Rob

Roboater
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:37 pm
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Re: Boat Repair If You Dare

Post by Roboater »

I thought i'd add a quick update to my boat repair.
Two years down the line.
The original plates are still in place.
The repair hasn't leaked..............at all.
I got a burn for £200 and it's still going strong. the bolt heads aren't a worry at all. They soon wore smooth enough to cease to be an issue.

How cool.

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Johnnyalbs
Posts: 184
Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 11:37 pm
Location: Somerset

Re: Boat Repair If You Dare

Post by Johnnyalbs »

Rob

Do you have any photos of the process or your boat as it is now. I know it's some time ago now, but it would be interesting to see how it has stood up to a few years of WW. I am just at the end of repair job on a Elite spec Hero and once I have finished off the final touches will test and post my job in full for review. I use plastic plates instead of metal as I wanted the plates to flex with the boats hull and was worried about leaks around the edges due to the rigidity of the plate and the flexibility of the hull. I also used a specialist adhesive tape (3M VHB), which my mates are dubious about but I am fairly happy with! But will revert to a flexible epoxy/rivet solution if the tape fails, but hope will be OK as the inner plate is held solid by the seat and hull bar.

Time will tell whether I get a wet arse, but if it's a goer I got a 08 Hero all in for £150!

Roboater
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:37 pm
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Re: Boat Repair If You Dare

Post by Roboater »

Hi there.
The boat is still water tight and the repair has proved itself more times than I could ever have hoped for.
The aluminium plates were flexible enough to allow the hull to become slightly concave at the site of the repair,
but this hasn't affected the performance in any way that I've been able to detect.
After three years of fairly constant use for work and play I feel confident enough in the method I've used to
be able to recommend it to anyone considering a repair to a split hull.
It has saved me any troubles with the problems of long term bonding of patches to the plastic, and has stood
up to repeated bashings and flexing of the hull without any pealing at the edges or failure of the bolts.
I hope your repair goes at least as well and gives you years of hassle free paddling.
If you decide your repair method doesn't meet your needs however, feel free to get in touch and I will tell you all I can
regarding mine in the hope it might help.

All the best.
Rob

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Johnnyalbs
Posts: 184
Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 11:37 pm
Location: Somerset

Re: Boat Repair If You Dare

Post by Johnnyalbs »

Rob
Thanks, yes some details of the mastic and the size ad distance between the bolts would be useful for reference.

Glad to hear a metal plate design does work if done well, I had heard a few horror stories from others, but may they weren't as diligent as you.

Ta
John

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