SURFING IN THE SOUTHWEST
by Mark Rainsley
These notes were originally written for English Whitewater.
Where
The North Coast catches swells with a 6000 mile fetch from Brazil! In general, the size of the swell decreases heading east from Lands End to the marginal surf breaks of Somerset. There are an almost infinite number of high quality spots to choose from, both reef and beach breaks. Paddlers tend to congregate at extremely popular spots like Newquay in Cornwall and Croyde in Devon, but only a little imagination is needed to avoid the crowds. The South Coast breaks are often of dubious quality, with a much smaller fetch across the Channel. Notable exceptions are Bigbury Bay in Devon and the reef breaks at Kimmeridge in Dorset. A useful guidebook to breaks can be found at…
When
Accurately forecasting surf as about as easy as nailing jelly to the ceiling. The North Coast is relatively reliable, always having long periods of swell when fronts come in from the Atlantic. The South Coast usually requires foul local weather to come into condition, and catching the brief time span where the wind drops and the waves remain is a frustrating exercise. However, the range of information on weather and conditions available to surfers has improved massively in recent years; in particular, beach web cams allow you to ascertain conditions at a glance. This site offers tons of forecasts, web cams, and local reports with a distinct Southwest bias…
How
Surfing is far more than just a fallback option for when the rivers are dry; it is a sport in its own right, with its own culture, rules and etiquette. This has too often been forgotten by whitewater paddlers and as a result, we have a poor reputation among board surfers. They call us 'Goatboaters'; their stereotyped kayaker shows up by the minibus load and then spreads out all over the break, dropping in on and wiping out others at leisure. Ring any bells? Please remember; we're still just tourists out on the waves. Board surfers have been there longer and do it better. If we are to have any hope of being respected as equals out there, we need to learn some basic etiquette for starters. The BCU Handbook has good advice on this, also try…
www.the-watershed.co.uk/bcusurf/roadrules.htm
www.bodyboardhq.co.uk/html/etiquette.htm
Final thought; never, under any circumstances, refer to boardies as 'speed bumps'. They get upset.
Mark Rainsley.