RUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE II

THE SEQUEL

by Chris Wheeler (first published in CKUK magazine).

Back in the UK after surviving a recent white water boating trip to Bolivia, regular CKUK contributor Chris Wheeler talks about how, despite just being a bunch of regular guys with only two weeks to spare, they managed to put together a successful expedition to the 'Tibet of the Americas'.

We were still (foolishly) hoping to finish the river before nightfall but, as the sun slowly crept behind the imposing gorge walls, we realised it was not bean unplanned night out it was. Ive got the cooker, who has the pots?Yeah bro, I got em, wheres the freeze dried food at? At this stage everyone starts to look around with increasingly worried and hungry looks on their faces. Does anyone have the food?, someone finally mustered up the courage to asksilence I guess thats a no then one team member stated with strangely high spirits.

You may recognise the above- its from Simon Cowards article Rumble in the Jungle, which was published in Playboating magazine just over a year ago (issue 37, Nov/Dec 2003), and told the tale of an exploratory trip to Bolivia by three Kiwis, an American and an Australian in early 2003. The article stuck in my mind, because Bolivia was such an unknown and seemingly difficult boating destination, and yet this wasnt the usual high profile well organised sponsored pro boater expedition, but a bunch of regular guys who like us, did stupid things, like forgetting the food. I was intrigued, but didnt think more about it. After all, theyd spent 6 weeks in Bolivia- surely it wasnt a realistic destination for regulars guys with day jobs and only two weeks to spare?

Fast forward to Easter 2005, and were craning our necks excitedly to get a glimpse through the planes windows of 20,000 ft high snow capped Andean peaks whilst en route for La Paz, Bolivia. So, what happened to change our minds and how did we make the trip happen?

Back in the depths of a depressingly dry UK Winter, fellow boater Mark posted on www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk to say that we were looking for somewhere to go boating at Easter, and up popped someone to suggest Bolivia. Not that the someone in question had actually been boating there- hed been there trekking and figured that the combination of the Andes and rain must surely produce white water. Good theory. The Kiwi boys had posted details of their trip on their web site www.adventuretrippin.com including a river guide and diary. The worryingly familiar tales of suffering were pretty off putting, but, realising that there were raft companies in the Country and therefore drivers and 4WDs, it dawned in us that a two week trip might just be feasible after all. We were also vaguely aware that Scott Lindgren and friends had been to the country, but we were unaware of any river notes.

OK, so what next? Well, firstly we needed the right group. The selection process wasnt exactly rigorous- we simply rounded up the usual suspects, fresh from our masochistic exploits in Costa Rica, including our Costa Rican friend Ferdinand. Crucially, Ferdinand knew how to yield a machete and spoke fluent Spanish (whereas we, true Brits to a man, didnt). Veteran of Costa Ricas notorious Patria, we figured that hed save our necks when we were stuck again in the rain deep in the jungle.

How were we going to get there? Tricky one. We decided to take our chances with Brazilian airline Varig. No, Id never heard of them either. Assuming we ever got the boats to Bolivia, we were then going to be faced with the challenge of getting around. It was pretty clear from the Kiwi boys account that theyd spent vast amounts of time off the water hitchhiking and catching local buses full of chickens and we simply didnt have the time. So, we set Spanish speaking Ferdinand to work, contacting Bolivian rafting and tour companies and the result was two 4WDs and drivers, one English speaking, for only 170 each.

This left one more nagging problem. Kit. Memories of Costa Ricas epic Rio Patria were fresh in our minds. Specifically, the miserable night we spent in the rain, chewing cheese slices and tuna, moving camp as the river rose, enduring a sleepless night spent in our economy bivvy bags (in my case, more of a body bag) and then the next morning, the realisation that I had no idea how I was going to repair my broken boat and survive the 15 mile grade 4/5 paddle out of the impenetrable jungle. Some say that you know youre on an expedition as opposed to a holiday if youre hungry all the time. Well, we didnt want to go hungry this time. So, it was time to start taking the preparation a bit more seriously. It was time to turn ourselves into gadget freaks, like Kevin. So, we spent weeks obsessively poring over deluxe Gore Tex bivvy bags (with all important hoops!), super lightweight sleeping bags, ready meals and lethal looking petrol stoves (because you cant get gas bottles in places like Bolivia and you cant take fuel on flights, for obvious reasons). Both Mark and Kevin bought hand held GPSs (global positioning systems) and Mark started ordering 1:250,000 US Pilotage charts from Stanfords (is there anywhere the Americans havent bombed?).

Was Bolivia actually safe? Word came via the rafting companies and Ferdinand that the area further south around Cochabamba wasnt safe, particularly for gringos. Why? Because of Coca, which is grown in vast quantities in Bolivia. The locals have for generations chewed coca or drunk coca tea as a rather potent pick me up. Sadly, American youth now consumes vast quantities of its chemically processed derivative Cocaine and as a result the Americans now spend billions trying to eradicate the crop, much to the chagrin of the locals. Hence the unpopularity of gringos. However, we were informed that the mountains east and north of La Paz (the Cordillera Real and Yungas), were supposedly OK. Well, aside from blockades, strikes, landslides, and death defying roads.

Finally, we submitted an application to the BCU Expedition Committee for a grant. To be perfectly honest, I dont think most members of the team were aware that the Committee still existed. To my surprise, we were successful and were awarded half the grant alongside the Kayakstan boys, who were organising a very worthy Inter University mission.

So, how did we get on? Well, the boating exceeded expectations. I wont bore you with the details, because the photographs speak for themselves. If you want to know more, check out the photographs on www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk, and the some corner of a foreign field message thread.

Within the space of 13 days we paddled 9 different rivers. Coroico was our main focus, 40 miles to the northeast of La Paz and the Andean peaks, where rivers flow eastwards through jungle clad foothills, en route for the Amazonian Basin. In the Coroico area, we paddled the Huaranilla, Choro, Unduavi, Susisa, Zongo, Suapi and Coroico. Further to the north, we paddled the Camata and Calaya.

The Kiwi boys had already paddled five of these rivers: the Huaranilla, Choro, Suapi, Coroico and Camata. The one river they paddled that we didn't touch was the Quita Calzon. Read the description on their web site and you will understand why, although our excuse, and we're sticking to it, is that the river was too low!

The Unduavi was a river that the Kiwi boys hadn't mentioned, but our head driver Gary thought that a Frenchman and American once had - sketchy! Our first day on the river consisted of classic steep boulder garden grade 5, but was curtailed by a grade 6 rapid and a desperate climb out up a very steep scree slope in the dark. The second day threw everything at us, from grade 3 to 6, including a portage spent clinging to rocks at the base of a huge landslide and another 'cave experience' for Andy McMahon.

The other sketchy lead was the improbably named Zongo. Again, the Kiwi boys hadnt mentioned the Zongo but Gary thought that the same Frenchman and American had rafted it a couple of years earlier. Getting there was part of the experience. We drove up out of La Paz, through slums on the rim of the valley, over the Andes, past stunning 20,000 ft snow capped peaks and over a 16,000 ft plus pass before descending countless hairpin bends down to the river. We were confronted with yet another tough jungle carry in, an ominous walled in grade 5 gorge, a chest deep wade upstream to get to the only available beach and rain as we tried to start a fire. However, we couldn't face the shame of walking out so we stuck to the task. We were rewarded the next day with blue skies, a gorge that miraculously opened out and a classic 35 mile long deep in the jungle paddle, starting with grade 4/5 and gradually easing to grade 2. Marvellous.

So did we do any first descents? Quite possibly. The Rio Calaya, a road side run that you drive along en route to the Camata was an obvious choice. However, if the other groups had been in the country a few weeks later, it may well have been too low. This turned out to be quite a find, with overnight rain producing the perfect level for over 6 km of fantastic, continuous, intense grade 4+/5 at up to 300 fpm. The other possible first descent was the Susisa, a lovely little grade 4/4+ river that feeds into the Unduavi.

Did all that all that preparation beforehand pay off? Well, the logistical support team was brilliant, consisting of Gary and Reynaldo and two 4 wheel drive vehicles, including a Land Rover (suitable transport for a British Expedition!). We maintained a punishing schedule, boating all day and then often driving through the evening, but they never complained. I will always be grateful to our Land Rover Driver Reynaldo for not driving off the edge of the cliff whilst we travelled back and forth along 'The Worlds Most Dangerous Road' between La Paz and Coroico. The last night was the worst. Before we even got there we had to stop to help Police retrieve the corpses from a vehicle that had gone off the road three days earlier. Then we had to drive along the road one last time, in the dark and in the rain, with the Land Rover slipping and sliding in the mud as we drove as fast as possible to keep the failing cooling system working. The down side was that the Land Rover suffered 7 punctures, as they kept patching up the old tyres. Helping to change the tyres I realised to my horror just how bald the tyres were- and we'd been depending on those tyres on The Worlds Most Dangerous Road!

On our last night, we discovered that our head driver Gary was in fact a big cheese. Until recently hed been the Director General of the Bolivian Tourism Ministry, and he invited along the very beautiful young Vice Ministerio to interview us, complete with tape recorder. Then they took us on a tour of La Paz coolest night spots. The V.I.P. treatment- and a refreshing change from the usual reception we receive in North Wales.

And the kit? We needed all of it, well, apart from the hammocks, although we all loved gadget freak Kevin's deluxe army hammock, complete with canopy and mosquito net. Sleeping by the river on rocks, on playing fields and on schoolroom floors, we needed it all, from those bivvy bags to the very scary fuel stoves. On the Andean passes out came the warm tops and one day the group even resorted to wearing long sleeved dry tops and dry trousers, although most days, shorties and shorts were fine.

And the group? Well, they're a weird masochistic bunch that seems to delight in carrying their boats for miles through the jungle (I felt young on the water but VERY old off the water) but I wouldn't swap them for anyone else. Besides, who else would have me?

Other than that, we always felt safe (the locals were wonderfully welcoming) and Varig excelled themselves, happily taking our very six, very heavy, loaded boats free of charge.

On the flight home I terrible, due to a combination of alcohol, altitude, old age, dodgy guts and lack of sleep but deep down I was happy. Why? Well, wed survived for a start, and on this sort of trip there are 101 things that can go wrong. Wed also achieved what I had previously thought impossible- despite being regular Joe Boaters with day jobs and only two weeks to spare, wed taken on a genuine expedition and succeeded. It can be done.

Chris Wheeler carried his boat for miles through the jungle with Andy Levick, Andy McMahon, Ferdinand Steinvorth, Kevin Francis, Marcus Holburn, Mark Rainsley, and Simon Wiles. The team would like to thank the British Canoe Union Expedition Committee for its support.

FACT FILE

The country

Bolivia is located in South America, astride the Andes, in the middle of the continent, in between Argentina, Chile, Peru, Brazil and Paraguay. The Geography lies behind the comparisons with Tibet. Heading from west to east you will encounter the 3,500 to 4,000 metre high Altiplano plateau, 6,000 metre high snow capped Andean peaks and then steep jungle clad foothills on the descent to the Amazonian Basin. Thanks to its neighbours grabbing land during various conflicts many years ago, the country is now landlocked, but its still 3.5 time the size of the British Isles. Over half the countrys 8.5 million people claim to be of indigenous origin- the highest proportion of any South American country. Many women still wear traditional costume, however, remarkably, the traditional bowler hats and striped shawls were in fact introduced by the Spanish. The Country is Spanish speaking and 95% Catholic and very poor. Follow the latest travel advice and take care and Bolivia is in fact reasonably safe. However, dont be surprised if your journey is delayed at some point by something, whether its an accident, strike or blockade.

The paddling

Few of Bolivias white water rivers have been kayaked yet and there are endless opportunities for first descents. Most of the rivers that have been paddled to date consist of challenging grade 4/5 boulder gardens situated deep in steep, committing jungle clad gorges. Bolivian road side rivers are usually 500 ft below the roads- be warned! As a result, whilst grade 3 does exist, its a destination that is best suited to experienced well equipped groups comfortable with committing grade 4/5 and perhaps looking for something more challenging after Costa Rica or Ecuador. Detailed information on the rivers is available on www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk and www.adventuretrippin.com. There is a cluster of rivers in the Coroico area, 3-4 hours north east of La Paz and a further cluster of known rivers at Camata, about 8-10 hours to the north of La Paz. The Cochabamba area, about 15 hours southeast of La Paz, has potential and could be a happy hunting ground for groups looking for first descents, however, do check to ensure the region is safe at the time of travel.

Bolivia is sub tropical and has a wet season and dry season. The wet season is typically during the Summer (the UK Winter i.e.: December to March) and probably the best time to visit is at the tail end of the wet season, at Easter. At this time, the rivers will tend to have water in but not be too high and the roads are starting to dry off. As for the weather, come prepared for anything, from the Altiplano, where you can expect typical UK Easter weather, to the cool foggy damp Andean passes, to the hot humid jungle foothills, where the rivers are. Short sleeved dry top usually suffice- but not always.

Getting there

There are various options, including Brazilian airline Varig, who fly via Sao Paulo and who can be persuaded to take kayaks for free. However, Bolivia isnt a cheap destination- expect to pay around 800- 900 each return.

Getting about

Bolivia is a challenging, poor country with basic infrastructure (such as The Worlds Most Dangerous Road) and a Spanish speaking native population. Arranging 4 wheel drive vehicle and drivers in advance (including an English speaking driver) is strongly recommended. Outback Bolivia is excellent- contact Gorge Schmidt (00591 223 11628) or Gary Prada (00591 712 96755). Expect to pay under 200 per person for 2 weeks. There are also rafting and mountain biking operators who should be able to help. Try www.andesamazon.com and www.downhill-madness.com. Order maps in advance via www.stanford.co.uk and www.omnimap.com. The 1:250,000 JOG charts should suffice, although you might also want to order 1:50,000 maps for specific first descents.

By Chris Wheeler (first published in 'CKUK' magazine)

Mark's Bolivia photos.