GUIDE TO THE RIVER LEVEN

NAME OF RIVER: Leven.

WHERE IS IT?: It flows out of Windermere in the south Lake District, aimed in the general vicinity of the sea.

PUT-INS/ TAKE-OUTS: Either start on Windermere or put in at Newby Bridge near a wide weir.

The Take-out will be clearly marked as you are not officially allowed to paddle the complete river; see below. Last time I paddled this (a few years ago) signs directed you to cross a field to a road.

Nick Mortimer (Dec 2003)...'If you complete the full trip - which of course you are not supposed to - get out near Clock Tower buildings, Haverthwaite, where river is tidal, that lane is PRIVATE and belongs to Holker estates. Suggest Park car on other side of public cariageway, on Clock Tower side. Simple when you know.'

APPROX LENGTH: 2 miles, plus another two below the 'Racecourse'.

TIME NEEDED: 1-2 hours.

ACCESS SITUATION: You can only paddle this on special open days and may have to book tickets ahead; see 'Canoeist' magazine and 'Canoe Focus' in the Autumn to find out what days will be available and how to book tickets. Not all of the river is available, either. See also Philip Skinner's comments below.

In practice, the entire river is run on most days of the winter by discreet small groups, in particular by local paddlers.

Si Wiles adds..(Dec '01) 'during an early morning run on the Leven this weekend, I found I had a flat tyre when I finished at Haverthwaite. My tyre was spiked in the sidewall, no way I could have got a puncture in that position accidentally. So, 45 quid for a new tyre. I don't think I'll be doing the Leven too often (the intended result I'm sure) unless I have a getaway driver left with the car.'

WATER LEVEL INDICATORS: Can be paddled for a long while after rain, even weeks. The river runs highest about 3-5 days after heavy rain.

Adrian J Pullin...'The best guide to level seems to be the number of gates open on river left above the brick chute. If all are open, then the river is high. If all are closed then it is low and may be a bit of a scrape.'

GRADING: Grade 3 in low and medium levels, some grade 4 rapids below the 'Racecourse' section. I don't have experience of this river in very high water.

MAJOR HAZARDS/ FALLS: Some weirs. The only really dangerous bits are AFTER the Racecourse section.

Dave Parton (Jan 2005)...'Fisherman's Bridge at Fisherman's Island on the lower Leven has disappeared in the recent flood waters. Not sure where!!!! We checked it out but decided to go left of the island until we have scoped it in low water to see where the remains have gone.'

Mark Davies, Regional Access Officer - Cumbria...(April 2004) 'The Rotary Screw Traps have (@ Troutbeck) and will be (Leven) put in place to monitor this year's smolt run (young salmon migrating downstream to the sea). The Environment Agency have consulted with Local River Advisors, and warning signs have been placed at certain locations to highlight the potential hazard. The locations are: Leven Directly upstream of the fish counter at Brewer's Field, in between the metal footbridge and the counter. (SD 355 844) This will be in place next week hopefully. At the moment the flows are too high to put it in. Troutbeck Downstream of Calgarth Bridge prior to the confluence with Windermere. (SD 395 997) There will be wires holding the traps in place so paddlers should exercise great care.'

Mark Davies, Regional Access Officer - Cumbria...(March 2004) 'Just got a message from the EA. The Smolt traps will be in place this year and will be put on the Troutbeck on 15 March, and the Leven on 22 March. The Local River Advisor will meet the EA bods in early March to confirm the exact positioning/ height etc and I will update again to reflect the outcomes of this.'

Mark Davies Regional Access Officer, Cumbria (Feb 2004)...'The fisheries department of the EA will be putting a smolt trap on the river Leven again this year. Provisionally details are as follows:
It will be within one of the channels (Channel 2 - 2nd channel from left bank [one to the left of the island - looking d/s])of the fish counter at Backbarrow (Brewers Field). Grid Ref: SD 3555 8441.
A walkway will be erected from the right bank to the island. This will prevent passage across channels 3 & 4 as well.
Channel 1 will be the only free channel but will have wires across - securing the trap to the left bank. Please note: this channel has some free electrodes sticking up (as the plastic sheeting has come free) and is not always covered with water.
Portage around the fishcounter is possible but permission from land owner should be sought. The trap location has changed from last year so a site visit will hopefully be made by the LRA's and EA fisheries folk to discuss. Will update further when more is known.'

Nick Mortimer (Dec 2003)...'Council by-law forbids jumping off Backbarrow Bridge. Sign on bridge, so no seal launching off bridge. By-law to prohibit local kids jumping, in summer (ineffective). Its the Timeshare around bridge against paddlers, as well new hydro electricity plant and land owners. NB Hydro plant has messed up adjacent weir, making it very strong hole in high water. Current practice is to portage, as already out of boat to get round BIG weir.'

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: If you have started at Newby Bridge, the weir is the first obstacle. It should present no problems in low/ medium levels but the stopper is quite sticky if you try to play in it! Below this are a series of rapids which offer good play potential...

After this the section of 'permitted' access ends (called 'The Racecourse').

The section below the 'racecourse' is closed to all access at the moment, and very sensitive to boot. Stories of paddlers being car-chased by angry fishermen or verbally harangued by landowners are common. However, for completeness, it could do with being described. Below the official egress a short section leads to an easy curving weir on the outskirts of Backbarrow. A tongue normally exists on river right. Shortly after this the river drops steeply through Backbarrow Bridge, from the angle of approach it looks like there is barely enough head clearance sometimes, but it's normally enough. This is worth looking at beforehand to avoid getting off if its OK. In really high water it looks nasty and I've just portaged to below the next weir.

The next weir is runnable, under certain conditions, but I've never fancied it myself. A portage immediately upstream on river left is possible in most water conditions. There are some holes just upstream of the portage get-in which can give ends. Immediately after this there is another drop, the stopper of which will hold boats. (see Steve Ed's comments below) If you've portaged around both bridge and weirs, you can get in just downstream of this, but only by climbing into the pumping station compound.

More fast water leads under a huge roadbridge to a small weir. Next obstacle is a pipe bridge which I have rolled under in big water. I've portaged this once at high levels, but usually its OK. A huge weir follows giving a choice of a slide or some fishladder steps on river right. Some playholes are formed by the fishladder, but they are hard work to get. There is a nice little wave and eddy river left before the fisherman's bridge island. River right of the island is indeed dangerous at high water (fisherman's bridge not designed with paddlers in mind!). Run left of island in spate - colossal wave trains in narrow channel between overhanging trees (reverse ferrying to avoid trees whilst freefalling off the backs of waves is an interesting move but great fun!). You then have to paddle back through the trees to the RR side (not difficult) and there are a few ledge holes/ waves which play nicely. Go under arched stone road bridge immediately below last flowing bit and get out river left.

Steve Ed adds more info about the second weir below Backbarrow Falls (March '00)...'the 2nd weir after Backbarrow Bridge is changing each week as building work is been done, in high water you don't want to take it on the right as its got a very nasty hole, there's a sort a tongue in the middle and the left has a hole which would give you a bit of a work over but you would get out.'

Video of the Leven (7 megs) showing Fisherman's Bridge. From Mark Benson.

OTHER NOTES: A shame that the whole of this reliable and enjoyable river is not available; maybe this will change? After this, perhaps consider paddling some of the rivers which enter at the other end of Windermere, for instance the Rivers Brathay and Rothay or even Stock Ghyll if you have a screw loose and there's loads of rain around.

Andrew Clough (Spring 2005)...'Always paddled the 'Fisherman's Island' down river right, it seems to be a better route. Never had any probs there even prior to Jan 05. Heard rumours about it being dodgy but its fine even in big water although it can develop a bit of a grabby hole, having said that I've not swum down it!'

Atti Gray (Nov 2003)...'I paddled this river today at medium high levels and it gives a good trip. The upper section (racecourse) is grades 2 and 3 with play interest all the way down. The lower section is a blast with up to g4 water. the weir under backbarrow weir is very very sticky, there is a green tounge but my friend got worked here. After this there is several weirs chute's and g3 rapids for a log way until the take out.'

Adrian J Pullin adds...'Did this at at high levels in Feb 2000. The fall river left after the brick chute tends to flatten out, leaving less of a drop but more of a wave. Not a problem in kayak but may swamp unwary open boats. The graveyard section (referred to as the continuous grade 3 section above) becomes a fast bouncy set of waves. It will run anywhere if the rocks are covered, but may catch in experienced paddlers out with it's speed and power. At this level, the hardest part is getting the entry right. A big trough leads into the first wave, which crosses most of the river. Hit it straight and centre and you won't have a problem. Hit it at an angle and it's swim time. Also watch out at high levels for overhanging trees, particularly river right after the graveyard.'

CONTRIBUTED BY: Mark Rainsley, also Steve Ed, Andrew Clough, Adrian Pullin, Mike Redding, Si Wiles, Dave Hanson, Atti Gray, Mark Davies, Nick Mortimer, David Parton and Philip Skinner.

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