Sea Kayaking in Sutherland

[GeoffBowles]

I'm ashamed to admit that my sea kayaking year has yet to start in 2012. Various business trips have only served to confirm that sea kayaking isn't big in Bogota, Frankfurt or Nuremberg...

Hopefully this is about to change, as I intend to take my boat when I join my climbing club colleagues on 2nd June for a week based in Lochinver. I've dusted off my pristine copies of Fifty Great Sea Kayak Voyages in Scotland, and Scottish Sea kayak Trail - sadly not yet at all dog-eared - but I'd appreciate any recommendations for must-do day-trips that I can alternate with days in the hills, bearing in mind that I'll be alone and trying to be sensible...

Naturally, if anyone is planning any trips in the area that week (instead of watching the Queen paddling her canoe down the Thames) I'll be happy to join forces. I'm planning to drive North during the previous week, so I'm also looking to get onto the water somwhere on the West coast as I head North

Geoff

[ian johnston]

Hi Geoff,

The Summer Isles to the south are an obvious attraction and justifiably popular. Putting in from near to old pier west of Achiltibuie gives good access.

A little to the north of Achilitibuie, the slipway near the former campsite at Achnahaird is a good starting point for several paddles. It can be very slippery on the old timbers here but there's parking right next to the put in. A massively scenic paddling area with great views of the Assynt "superstars". If you can blag the shuttle, a good paddle is from here to Lochinver with a nice stop at Inverkirkaig on the way. A word about the shuttle though, the road from Achnahaird to Lochinver takes waaay nore time than you would think - plan on averaging 15-20mph at best.

Lochinver to Achmelvich is a nice half day or evening paddle - again a shuttle required though.

Putting in from Kylesku gives a couple of very fine options west to Loch Shark and the sea or east into either of the sea lochs (one has a bothy at the end). Good moderate tidal flow near the bridge to play in and superb food at the Kylesku Hotel, particularly if they have langoustines on the night's menu. In the sumer it's often better to put in from the old ferry slip at the north side of the bridge as the parking at the hotel gets busy.

Further north again, putting in at Scourie and paddling around Handa is possibly the pick of the bunch, though conditions really need to be good as it can get very gnarly against the cliffs on the outside, and wind over tide can make conditions "interesting" in the Sound of Handa. If you land near the ferry disembarkation point expect to be asked to pay to visit the island (it's a bird reserve) ; there are a couple of great (but small) sandy beaches along the southern coast if you want to avoid paying. The seabird cliffs on the west side should be full by early June so perhaps best to stay a little offshore to avoid disturbance.

And a bit farther north again, Loch Laxford is a good area but it can be surprisingly dificult to find good access and landing places as the rock drops straight into the water along most of the shore (and islands).

Hillwalking wise, I'm sure you have a hit-list (no shortage of possibilities!) but if you can, don't miss out on Quinag; probably the best of the lot as a hillwalk with the views of all the others plus the sea.

If you've not been to Assynt before and have any specific questions (put-ins, facilities etc), give me a PM

I have a few days off in ealy June - you may see a yellow Xcite around there!

Kind Regards

Ian

[andreadawn]

Ian has covered this stunning area very comprehensively so I've only a few things to add.

Handa is a must in my opinion if you get the right weather. As it's a fairly short trip I think it is well worth while having a walk around the nature trail as well for the views from the clifftops. You will just be asked for a small donation to the Scottish Wildlife Trust.

Loch Laxford can be accessed from near the head of the loch where the main road turns away north eastwards towards Rhiconich.
I launched next to the little jetty here having parked in the layby just back down the road. The chart shows the head of the loch as drying but there was water up to the jetty both when I launched and landed. There are several fish farms and a huge mussel farm in the loch but it is still an interesting place for a potter about.

The coast south from Scourie is interesting too. There are some good caves between Scourie and Badcall. The Badcall islands are worth exploring and there are some lovely bays tucked in behind them.

Point of Stoer is a very fine trip either from Clachtoll to the south or Clashnessie.

If you fancy a good long day out (c. 35km), you could try combining the Summer Isles trip from the Pesda guide with a crossing to Priest Island, retuning via Bottle Island, Carn Iar and Eilean Dubh.

I have paddled all these trips solo although I am not particularly skilled, but I am very very picky about the conditions I will go out in alone. Except for the upper parts of Loch Laxford they are all very exposed to bad weather. Not that you'll get any of that in the far north west!!!

Hope you have a great trip.

Andrea Collins

[GeoffBowles]

Two perfect responses - many thanks!!!

I've long wanted to visit that area so I jumped at the chance when my climbing club decided to organise the annual Scottish meet there this year. It's time to print some maps and start doing some proper planning! If conditions are right, I suspect I'll spend more time paddling than walking and climbing - then will bore everyone stiff in the pub during the evening!

Geoff

[bobt]

Don't forget the Sutherland has a North coast also and pretty stunning it is too. Putting in at somewhere like Melvich (Awesome surfing) and heading West towards Strathy Point, then Betty Hill, Kyle of Tongue and Durness will all reward you with some very impressive sea cliffs.

[bobt]

Don't forget the Sutherland has a North coast also and pretty stunning it is too. Putting in at somewhere like Melvich (Awesome surfing) and heading West towards Strathy Point, then Betty Hill, Kyle of Tongue and Durness will all reward you with some very impressive sea cliffs.

Ok, I'm going to expand on this further. Melvich is the last village before you get into Caithness (which has some stunning sea kayaking on its East coast) and has a beautiful white sand beach with a very unusual sand dune feature where the river bends at the last minute before entering the sea. Somewhat attached to Melvich is the small village of Portskerra which has a very small man made harbour where you can put in or, alternatively, a stunningly beautiful natural harbour at the bottom of the Portskerra "loop". From here you can explore West to Strathy beach (where you can land if it is calm).

The next stage would be to go round Strathy Point and remember, I'm no sea kayaking expert so you'd need to do some research on the perils but it is a great place to explore the geos and caves.

Next would be Betty Hill and Farr beach and after that the Kyle of Tongue. At the head of the Kyle of Tongue lies one of the most perfect little mountains in the whole of Scotland, Ben Loyal, which is well worth a climb. Next to Ben Loyal lies Ben Hope which is the most northerly Munro so for the baggers amongst your group (if there are any) it would be worth the trip.

Next is Loch Eribol and at the head of this is one way of entering Foinaven, one of the remotest and most spectacular climbing areas in the UK mainland. It even has its own bothy. After Eribol you will end up in Durness passing the famous Smoo Caves.

If any of this whets your appetite you can get your climbing friends to come along for the adventure. If they buy the "North Highlands - North" guidebook they will find that there are numerous climbs along the north coast starting at Portskerra with some of the best climbing out on Strathy Point. The challenge will be finding them but that is part of the fun. If they go into Foinaven they are best to take a mountain bike down the main track accessed BEFORE you get to Durness coming from the south but Foinaven is a big trip with hard, muti-pitch climbing on loose or wet rock.

All of this will be 3 hrs from Reiff but well worth it for a long day out.

[nigelhatton]

I have a habit of not reading before I post so I may have missed something. Are there any books on Scottish Sea kayak trips, inland as well.
200 posts I have just noticed of mine,God help me!

[Euan]

I can recommend a wee paddle out to Eilean Nan Ron, Neave Island (leaving from Skerray Harbour), the abandoned houses and wild sheep on Ron make for an eerie walk when you are on your own (not that I would approve of paddling alone). You can also paddle round through some of the caves to Torrisdale sands for a bit of a surf..!

There are also the Rabbit Islands heading off from Talmine Bay

Lots to do, love the place!

[tpage]

Good trips in the preceding lists.

I paddled through the area a couple of years ago and based on that experience I went back for a week last summer with my kayak to Inverkirkaig for a spot of hillwalking a day trips in the kayak.

I highly recommend paddling from Inverkirkaig to Clachtoll and back via the Soyea and also head right up into the top of Loch Roe- it is stunning.
Get out to Stoer and also make sure you visit Oldanay- the most beautiful Island I have ever visited. Edrachillis bay and its islands are also well worth a day trip- I got buzzed by 30+ common dolphins and saw a Minke breach all within a 20 minute period.

To be up there in this week of high pressure would be incredible.

Enjoy, Tony

[ian johnston]

Good trips in the preceding lists.

I paddled through the area a couple of years ago and based on that experience I went back for a week last summer with my kayak to Inverkirkaig for a spot of hillwalking a day trips in the kayak.

I highly recommend paddling from Inverkirkaig to Clachtoll and back via the Soyea and also head right up into the top of Loch Roe- it is stunning.
Get out to Stoer and also make sure you visit Oldanay- the most beautiful Island I have ever visited. Edrachillis bay and its islands are also well worth a day trip- I got buzzed by 30+ common dolphins and saw a Minke breach all within a 20 minute period.

To be up there in this week of high pressure would be incredible.

Enjoy, Tony

Heading to Inverkirkaig on Saturday morning - hoping the weather hangs around for a few days after that! :o)

Kind Regards

[allan09]

Will be just down the road from you Ian at Summer Isles. Heading over tonight for 3 days paddling. You just cant beat this weather...shame we have to work.

[Jim]

I have a habit of not reading before I post so I may have missed something. Are there any books on Scottish Sea kayak trips, inland as well.

Yes there are, but people often like a personal reccommendation when they have limited time to pick their trips.
http://www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk/book ... book-shelf has most of them, except the SW Scotland book which Douglas has been working on. For inland, the canoe guides are more use to a sea kayaker than the whitewater guides.

I guess your R&R is creating extra time to waste on the internet :-)

[ian johnston]

Hi Geoff,

A wee taster to whet your appetite! I hope you get the same weather we had last weekend....





Assynt hills from Aird of Coigach




28 degrees Celcius on Clachtoll beach! :o)




The best beach (nearly) in the Summer Isles




End of a perfect day, Inverkirkaig Bay

Once I've sorted the photos, there'll be trip reprts on my blog. Have a great trip, and as a food recommendation try the newly refurbished and now community run Lochinver Mission - excellent grub.


Kind regards

Ian

[nigelhatton]

I have a habit of not reading before I post so I may have missed something. Are there any books on Scottish Sea kayak trips, inland as well.

Yes there are, but people often like a personal reccommendation when they have limited time to pick their trips.
http://www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk/book ... book-shelf has most of them, except the SW Scotland book which Douglas has been working on. For inland, the canoe guides are more use to a sea kayaker than the whitewater guides.

I guess your R&R is creating extra time to waste on the internet :-)

I must say I feel guilty paddling the internet from my armchair BUT
I will buy one of the Scottish Sea Kayaking books on friday from AS watersports on my way to Scotland, Lewis, St Kilda. 24 days of my version of physiotherapy that is always promised by others but to this day has never materialised. I can walk now but not very good uphill and I don't do steps. Paddle 8 1/2 miles 1 h 22min just no leg fitness so will try hill walking.
Drag racing at Santa Pod 23/24th
Poss 6th op coming soon on left side, must get Scotland out the way.

[GeoffBowles]

I'm sitting in the Lochinver Mission now, patchily online through a tether to my phone, so I'll only attempt a very short update...
Tuesday - arrived in Torridon - stayed at the Youth Hostel
Wednesday - did Ben Alligin (anticlockwise) stopping often to admire the view and take photos - warm crystal clear day. After getting back to my car drove to the end of the road at Daibaig - one of the most beautiful bays I've seen for a while. Launched and paddled over to the Shieldaig peninsula, then looped anticlockwise round Loch Shieldaig to get back to the car at about 2100.
Thursday - raining in Torridon, but clear by the time I got to Loch Maree. Launched at the first car park (near the SE end) and paddled along the North shore as far as Letterewe taking photos of the clouds perfectly reflected in the water. As I turned to come back, the wind got up and blew me back down the lake. Someone 'up there' must be looking after me! Drove to Achiltibuie and stayed at the Achininver Youth hostel. Lots of smoke and flame visible from a fire on Tanera Mor.
Friday (today). Clear and sunny - Tanera Mor still on fire. Launched from Badenscallie and paddled to Tanera Mor - surprised by the strength of the wind (reported on the Mountain forecast as negligible...). Paddling along the South coast of Tanera Mor found the heather still burning with half a dozen firefighters flapping things on poles at it. Completed circumnavigations of both Taneras, but found the Northern shores quite sporting - I seemed to be bouncing along in the clapoti zone. Waves washing over my spraydeck on the paddle back to the mainland, and finally got back to the car after 5.5 hours in the boat, wet, cold and knackered. Drove to Lochinver, resolving to go back to mountaineering for a couple of days. Surely this weather can't last another week? What will I do with all my pictures?
Geoff

[Jim]

I didn't realise you were doing Wester Ross first, I've decided to spend a few days by Loch Ewe and brought my boat with me, I think you were in Sutherland by the time I arrived though. Looks like the weather is going to be a bit cooler for a few days.
No guests booked tonight so I think I'll tempt my dad out tomorrow if the weather looks suitable (it takes until about midday to do the rooms, and my helping just spoils their system!)

Didn't notice a fire/smoke on Tanera Mor Saturday morning but I maybe wasn't close enough to see looking accross Gruinard bay.

[andreadawn]

What will I do with all my pictures?

Show them to us please!

Andrea Collins

[GeoffBowles]

Continuing the overview...
Saturday - walked the 29km circuit over Suilven, starting and finishing in Lochinver. Ascended to the bealach on Suilven from the South - possibly the worst ascent path I have ever had the misfortune to use.
Sunday - wandered over point of Stoer, looked at the stack, lighthouse, trig point etc. Enjoyed the walk, the views and the drive but wasn't brave (stupid) enough to launch my kayak for a solo trip
Monday - launched at Clashnessie, paddled straight out to Eilean Chrona (waking up a lot of seals) then explored the coast of Oldany Island. Got to the passage between it and the mainland at low (spring) tide and found the channel empty, so took an extended lunch break/nap waiting for the sea to come back. Explored the islands in front of Drumbeg and visited the jetty at Culkein Drumbeg. I suspect that I missed something in the Summer Isles because I found this a far more interesting and enjoyable trip!
Tuesday - launched at Scourie intending to visit Handa Island. Enjoyed a lovely calm paddle along the South Coast of Handa, so continued round the corner. As the cliffs reared to their full height, sea conditions started demanding my full attention, but I decided that going on was a better option than turning back - probably a case of excessive bravery (stupidity). I completed the circuit having seen little of the cliffs, and being only dimly aware that I was passing the stack. My best memory of the paddle was having hundreds of guillimots and razor bills pour past, over and round me as I tackled the gnarliest conditions. Landed on the beach and spent a wonderful three hours (not enough) on this wonderful island. Again, I found this a much better trip than the Summer Isles - I really must have missed something while I was there... Admittedly I didn't actually land on the Summer Isles, if only because of the fires.
Wednesday - a good mountain day on Quinag. All summits visited.
Thursday - three club colleagues wanted to visit Handa island (by ferry) and I wanted to explore more of the coast, so I offered to drive them to Tarbet. While they bought their ferry tickets I launched and started exploring the islets just off Tarbet. Sea conditions were rather pleasant so I nipped across to the SE corner of Handa and paddled up the coast to see the stack properly. enjoyed getting a close view of guillimots, razor bills, puffins etc on and over the water. Then did the sensible thing and headed NE to look at the astonishing rock formations in the cliffs North of Tarbet. Starting to feel a little tired so popped over to Handa Island for another walk and a chat to the volunteers.
Tomorrow is the last day of my two week trip, and the first with a poor weather forecast, so who knows what it will bring. Perhaps the weather will force me to make a start sorting out my photographs and trip reports.
Geoff

[username Chris S]

Not sure if anyone's mentioned it, but a boat tour spotted some orcas off the Summer Isles last week. I was out there myself the day before - would have been quite a sight!

There's a youtube vid here: http://youtu.be/QkmzwtOJvNA (not the greatest, looks like an eclipse is going on - fast forward to 1:40)

And plenty of photos here: http://tinyurl.com/7fgo6wq

Ch