Kayak conversion to a C1?

[OldNick]

After a recent crisis of confidence in my K1 Jaguar, having lost my balance, I have aquired a C1. I am looking to race a C1 hopefully in next year's Waterside series. BUT it would seem that the only competetive model is the We-no-nah - J203. However, @£2,500 it is outside my budget. As my current craft is only 11' 7" long x 27" wide x 22kgs it isn't really suitable for racing.

So, what are the options for converting a kayak into a canadian? My plan is to get an old touring fibreglass K2 and cut off the deck, reinforce it with timber gunnels and cross bracing and install a high seat between where the kayak positions were. This way I get a reasonably light boat that should maintain a better straight line, also at a price I can afford.

Does this make sense? Has anyone else tried this? Are there any better options to meet my objectives?

[Eliza Dolittle]

I'd check the rules for boat specs for the races concerned before investing any money in a hull to convert. There was some discussion after the Waterside B race this year about a K2 that was paddled C2 style, I think the concern was mainly over the rudder. From a paddling perspective you need to get the seat high enough for an effective sit and switch which may not be possible in a K1 without losing too much stabilty. The Jaguar is used as training boat for dragon boat racing using a single bladed paddle from a sitting position but they also fit an outrigger.
As an alternative C1, Marsport also sell the Summersong C1 which won the C1 class in the 2004 DW (Just don't ask how many entered)Top spec is just as expensive as a Jensen but there may be second hand ones about as I think they have been around longer.

[OldNick]

OK, checked the rules on the International Canoe Federation web site regarding boat construction and I'm somewhat perplexed. My dream C1, the We-no-nah - J203 appears to be illegal under these regs. Apparentely, a C1 should be 520cm long max and the We-no-nah - J203 is 564cm (18'6" according to the Marsport web site), also, the deck should not go into the boat by more than 5cm from the gunwall and the We-no-nah - J203 seems to encroach far more than this. As it's an American manufacture, are the rules different there?

I don't think there's a minimum beam specification but it would have to be reasonable to have any hope of stability, hence my plan to use a touring K2 rather than a K1.

I checked out the 2004 DW C1 winning time and it was 30 hrs 52 mins. Huge respect to Craig Hill, but that's an enormous length of time to be paddling even over 4 days. The Waterside times were 3:15, 3:51, 5:23, 8:39 which sort of supports my comment regarding competitive boats (even though they may be illegal!) as Shaun Martin from Richmond did 2:19 on Wateside A in 2008 in his We-no-nah - J203.

I saw the guys padling the K2 on the Waterside with single blade paddles, I don't think their time was counted. Nor I believe, were the guys who paddled standing up! Wow, weren't they something?

It would appear than second hand C1's are as rare as rocking horse droppings!

So, my quest for a candidate boat continues.

[Eliza Dolittle]

There are different rules for marathon racing in America & Canada.

I had a look at the Sprint & Marathon racing Handbook.(Section F) In the UK there are 5 categories of race.
Group A which is I) Divisional marathon races, ii)Races and time trials approved by the marathon committee but outside the divisional system eg Thamessides, Royal K1, iii) The National Championships.
Group B races are handicap and fun races and Lightning races
Group C races are races approved by the Marathon committee but organised by outside bodies eg DW.

For Group A races boats must comply with ICF designs. The minimum beam specification was removed a few years ago.

I think portaging a K2 of ICF length 6.50m single handedly could prove quite difficult, especially if you can't get a lightweight hull . The old touring K2s aren't as long but tend to be glassfibre and very heavy. As for finding them, your first port of call should be the flowerbeds outside racing canoe clubs as that's where I've seen them! Good luck in your search.

[Pam Bell]

Has anyone else tried this?

David Train

Fladbury Paddle Club would be a good place to go for advice.

[Eliza Dolittle]

Not just flowerbeds...I was at a party last night and discovered that my local Scout group has some vintage craft they wish to give a good home too. Where are you based?

Or have you thought about getting a WWR C1? It should be easy enough to convert the kneeling thwart to a low seat, maybe enlarge the cockpit to K1 size to ease entry and exit at portages and since it is already classed as a WWR you should meet ICF rules for racing, also it was designed as a lightweight boat to start with.

Pam's comment has reminded me that in the original BCU Canoeing Handbook(1981) David Train uses a touring K1 to teach racing C1 to youngsters, but that is geared towards the high kneeling position not Sit and Switch.

[Hackworth]

In the US, boat specs come under the USCA. They tend to use width at a given waterline depth to specify boats, for example 32'' wide at 4'' waterline, or 27'' wide at 3'' waterline ('Pro' boats) etc. Hence the 'wings' you get on the J203. This also permits radical gunwale lines, so that's why they are the shape they are.

As far as the Watersides are concerned, I think the rules are interpreted in a pretty sensible way. In the C2 class you see 3x27 boats racing, along with ICF C2s, Jensen 18s, common or garden canadians, whatever. The cost and scarcity of these boats is such that to make any sort of class you have to allow a bit of leeway. The exception was racing a K2 with a rudder, because that is a definite advantage over no rudder, both in steering (especially in the B race) and in straightness of travel.

So I wouldn't get too worked up over the exact classes, as long as the boat is identifiable as a C1 (take the rudder off!) and is fairly paddled you should be OK (maybe check with James Treadgold though!). In terms of boats that meet the ICF requirements completely, the Wenonah Advantage will come close, but maybe only the Summersong does it all. And a class solely of those would be small indeed...

[OldNick]

Hi Eliza, if the offer of a scout boat was directed at me, then thanks. I located in Andover, Hampshire. E-mail: nickadnitt@aol.com.

I also looking at some candidate boats on E-Bay, but they tend to increase in price towrads the end of the auction, I'm crazy, but not rich!

[OldNick]

Thanks to Liz and Frimley Scouts, I now have a candidate kayak to use as a prototype. It's a big old touring K1 and has clearly seen better days, but will enable me to try the concept. It is 15' long and has a 24" beam. It did weigh 26.4 kg until I cut off the deck leaving a 3" gunwall of deck. I also remove the seat which had been fibre-glassed in, and my new "canadian" now weighs 20 kgs.

The next job is to rub it all down, fit a seat and give it a try. Further reports on progress later.

[OldNick]

Conducted the maiden voyage of the "KanadiaK". It is quicker than my traditional C1 and I can get more strokes in before it starts to turn. The seat is about 2” below the gunwale and it is surprisingly stable. I experimented with the position of the seat fore and aft. If it is too far forward the boat turns quicker, if it is too far back the stern drags a bit.

It is about 10 minutes quicker over 6 miles (Kennet & Avon canal, Marsh Benham to Kintbury and back) but it didn’t seem any faster over a timed 150 metres.

I am going to raise the seat so it is level with the gunwales. This should make it a bit more unstable but should make the stroke a bit more efficient with the extra height.

[kamberliya]

How hard is it to add a rudder to my kayak? The kayak is a Current Designs Kestrel 140 roto. I am considering buying the Current Designs rudder for that kayak and wondering how hard this will be.
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[Eliza Dolittle]

Some quick work Nick in getting her ready for the water.If my memory serves me right there area few locks between Marsh Benham and Kintbury.
How does the new boat portage?
Are you saving time there as well as on the water?
Any pictures we can see?

[OldNick]

This is a summary of a kayak to C1 conversion project. I've tried to post some pictures, but if it doesn't work, the pictures can be seen at:

http://s675.photobucket.com/albums/vv116/nickadnitt/Kayak%20to%20C1%20conversion/?start=all

I started out with an old touring K1 supplied by a scout group who were chucking it out. It was in a pretty bad state, but one can’t complain when it’s free. First thing was to check the rules:

The International Canoe Federation regulations state:

C1 - Max length – 520 cm, min weight - 10kg. The C1 and C2 may be entirely open. The minimum length of the opening shall be 280cm and the edge of the side of the craft (gunwale) can extend maximum 5cm into the craft along the whole defined opening. The boat can have maximum three strengthening bars with a width of maximum 7 cm each. Removable spray decks may be used.

The boat is 15 feet long which is 457cms so is compliant.

As the boat had been left outside for some time, the first task was to wash it down.









I then cut the deck off leaving out a 5 inch gunwale. I subsequently realised that this should have been 5 cm and re-cut it later.



The next job was to chisel out the seat which had been glassed in.





I built a seat and foot rest which could move in the boat to allow the optimum position to be determined:





I tested the boat on the canal and choose a rainy day so no-one would see me as the boat was in a bit of a state. But, even though it was only a proof of concept project, I couldn’t leave it in that condition.

So, I painted the outside yellow with Hammerite smooth pain and the inside with some external red paint. I also added a better seat which was higher due to the stability of the boat, plus some strengthening bars for easier carrying and a foot rest.









Some tape around the waterline covered the worst of the scars.

I then made a water disperser on the front deck to prevent water coming into cockpit if the bow went under a wave (I haven’t tested this in anger yet, Henley straight, here I come!)





I drilled some holes along the gunwale and threaded some cord to hold the buoyancy bags (when I get some) and to support the spray decks.





I made a spray deck for the rear as I kept scooping water into the boat during paddling.



And that’s about it for now. So I’ve got a reasonably fast ICF compliant C1, but it weight over 20kgs and is a killer to portage. So I’m looking for a lighter boat for Mk 2.

Any observations, comments, criticism and advice would be gratefully received.

[Eliza Dolittle]

It looks the business now.
How are you portaging it? One handed on the gunwhale (like a K1)or thwart on shoulders (like a trad OC) or hull on shoulders like a racing K1 or shoulder inside "cockpit" like a GP kayak? If you are load bearing off the gunwhale it may need some reinforcing as it wasn't designed for that kind of use as a K1. A lot of the canoes that do the Watersides are fitted with a small set of wheels (off a skateboard or mountain board) at the stern so it gets flipped over and dragged along, the towpath is generally is good condition to allow this.

[OldNick]

The latest innovation is a keel. The ICF regulations state that a C1 may have a keel as long as it goes the full length of the boat and is no deeper than 3cm. So I thought I see if it made any difference. Using some U shaped plastic edging bolted to the underside of the boat, I inserted a long piece of timber. This was 1cm deep at the bow and increasing to the maximum 3cm at the stern. See pics below.

Yes I could get an extra paddle stroke in before I had to switch, but it added one minute to the hour it took previously from the Marsport pontoon, up-stream to the weir at Caversham lock, back downstream to the bottom weir at Sonning lock and return.

OK, it's not a totally scientific experiment, but I’ve abandoned the idea.

The current boat is way too heavy to do lots of portaging. The first couple are OK and I can get the whole thing up on my shoulder. But as I get tired it's the cockpit on the shoulder leaving a big and painful groove. I think I'll just use it for training.

Having tested most concepts, my next candidate boat is an Arrow Craft Hobby K1. With a Marsport wobble factor of 8, I reckon it should do the trick.

What is the general consensus on this?

[Mike Summersong]

Hi Nick, I just surfed in on your thread - I've got a similar plan to you - I bought a C1 in may this year and have been training up to do some races in 2010 ( including the DW and Watersides, I've never raced before ). I was lucky and managed to buy a Summersong ( fibreglass ), we've also got an Old Town 158 Discovery and the Summersong feels like a rocket after you've paddled that ! If for comparison to what you're trying to create you want to have a go in the Summersong you'd be welcome. We're based in Caversham and I'm out on the Thames 3 - 5 days per week.

Cheers and Good Luck with your project.

Mike

[OldNick]

I Nick, I just surfed in on your thread - I've got a similar plan to you - I bought a C1 in may this year and have been training up to do some races in 2010 ( including the DW and Watersides, I've never raced before ). I was lucky and managed to buy a Summersong ( fibreglass ), we've also got an Old Town 158 Discovery and the Summersong feels like a rocket after you've paddled that ! If for comparison to what you're trying to create you want to have a go in the Summersong you'd be welcome. We're based in Caversham and I'm out on the Thames 3 - 5 days per week.

Cheers and Good Luck with your project.

Hi Mike,

What, buy a commercially available boat! If only I had the cash….sigh. I’ve always had a yearning to challenge conventional thinking and I have yet another cunning plan……….how about converting a K2 to a C1! I found an old K2 lurking next to some rubbish bins and thought, what the heck, let’s give it a go, especially as I have failed to procure a stable racing K1 to convert.

So I cut the deck off, put some strengthening around the gunwales and stuffed some buoyancy in. Then I designed a movable seat balanced on the gunwales. A rather nifty adjustable pin allowed me to experiment with the position. Or so I thought. I got about 10 cms away from the bank and thought “goodness me, it’s jolly unstable” (those may not have been my exact words!). So I sat on a plank on the bottom of the boat and away I went.

The boat is very light but a bit difficult to manoeuvre on the portage. Imagine the classic Buster Keeton slapstick scene with a very long ladder.

I was surprised that it wasn’t more directional stable, achieving only two paddle strokes on each side especially as it has a sort of rudder/skeg. It is quicker than “Mark I” and I’ve improved the footrest and seat for next time when I have a go on the Thames. I’ve also cut the skeg off. I have a benchmark distance from the pontoon outside Marsport/Wokingham Canoe Club.

Anyway, many thanks for the offer, see you on the water.

Pictures:

Original hull:

http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv11 ... boat_4.jpg

Original deck:

http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv11 ... boat_2.jpg

http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv11 ... boat_1.jpg

First conversion attempt:

http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv11 ... sign_4.jpg

http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv11 ... sign_3.jpg

Seat design:

http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv11 ... sign_2.jpg

[OldNick]

Is this third time lucky? Unfortunately I couldn’t find a stable K1 racer cheap enough to convert to a Canadian but I did find a white water racer on Ebay for £25.

This was a Baron Scimitar and had clearly seen better days. The Exe Descent racing number plates for two years may have been a bit of a give away in terms of the boats history. I would guess that someone found the most battered boat in the club and quickly patched it up for the Exe Descent.

Anyway, it only weights 12kgs and I can literally cut the deck fibre glass with scissors. The pictures show the changes I made. I originally positioned the seat in the same place as the kayak version but this was way too unstable. I moved it back to a wider part of the boat and I can get 2 – 3 stokes in either side.

At the moment it doesn’t seem as fast as the K2 conversion I did but I haven’t tested it on the Thames at Wokingham yet.

I’m still looking for that illusive stable K1 to convert, so if anyone knows of a likely candidate, please let me know on: nickadnitt@aol.com

I would be interested in anyone’s comments or advice.







First thing was to cut the deck off:



Then I used half round timber to “sandwich” the edge of the gunwales:









Put in a seat:



And a footrest:



Did a lot of work on the hull:

[OldNick]

Climbed a big learning curve on my quest to develop a fast C1 sit & switch flat water racer. Entered the 16 mile Basingstoke Canoe Club canal challenge on 5th December in my converted white water racer.

Started well, the third boat off, 1 minute intervals. I caught and passed the touring K1 a minute ahead in about the first 2 miles. Two stokes each side, power going into the foot rest. After 4 miles I caught and passed the C2 which started two minutes ahead. Didn’t see another boat until about 8 miles and that’s when it all started going wrong.

First off, Shaun Martin for Richmond zoomed past me in his Wenonah J193 C1 like I was stationary AND he was on the wash of a K2.

Then, probably due to fatigue, the balance started to go and then I was paddling two strokes on the left and FIVE on the right in order to keep a reasonable straight course. Convinced myself I was not sitting in the centre, started to shift my weight to compensate. Stopped whilst quicker boats over took me, and then it happened. Too late I saw a part submerged industrial wheelie bin in the water. Thought the boat would just glance off but it rode up and I was tipped out.

Cold, wet and fed up, I packed at the 10 mile point which took 2 hours 10 minutes to reach. Allowing 5 minutes to get back in the boat, I managed less than 5 miles/hour.

So, what went wrong? It is the vexed question of where is the line between stability and speed? I need a stable…ish boat but not so stable as to be too slow. (No, I can’t afford a Wenonah J193 and anyway, it doesn’t comply with the ICF C1 racing regulations)

However, undeterred I have another idea. As it ‘appens, I have just acquired the hull of a Macros K1 – wobble factor 4. This is a brand new hull made of Kevlar which was made by mistake by a boat builder. It has been lurking on a shelf for the last couple of years looking for a home and now it has found one.

The plan is to bend it out a bit to make the hull flatter and thus (hopefully) more stable. This will of course make the gunwales very close to the surface of the water. I am considering a number of solutions for this in the style of Heath Robinson and I will probably put large polystyrene blocks at each end, shaped to look more like a solid deck and deliver the bouncy.

I will take a few pics during it’s construction and I would of course be grateful for any advice or comments on this.

Stay tuned for further bulletins………………

[Eliza Dolittle]

You can see Sean in action
http://www.flickr.com/photos/paddling/4174168120/in/set-72157622972347680/

In this image you can get an idea of how much zigzagging Sean is doing by looking at the paddlemarks in the water
http://www.flickr.com/photos/paddling/4173412887/in/set-72157622972347680/

and Nick in action, swapping sides every 2 strokes
http://www.flickr.com/photos/paddling/4174182272/in/set-72157622972347680/

Pictures from Ollie Harding of Longridge CC

[OldNick]

The Mark IV Kanadiak is born! I’ve finished another kayak conversion based on a Macros K1 kevlar hull. It ain’t pretty as I am somewhat handicapped by lack of skill, experience and materials. Early trails are promising as it is a positive development on the previous attempts and I’m now ready to start training for the Waterside series once the Kennet and Avon canal thaws out!

I took a similar approach to previous versions, starting with a wooden gunwale on the inside of the hull. This supports the 90mm uPVC plastic cladding I used to increase the depth of the boat. I then put half-round timber around the outside to increase the rigidity.

To increase stability, I forced the sides of the hull open to 20”. Unfortunately this had the effect of bowing the whole boat along its length with the bow and stern lifting up at the ends. From recent unpleasant experiences, I have put the emphasis on stability and this seems to have had good effect.

The seat continuous to present the biggest challenge as there are no K1 seat rails or the threaded stud pointing up from the bottom inside of the hull. I think I’ve got round this now but I may consider further adaptations later.

The weight is now up to 12kgs which is acceptable for portaging especially as I’ve implemented some “carrying handles”.

I still have to run it over my benchmark course on the Thames at Reading to gauge its performance against previous crafts, but I’m confident it will product a satisfactory result.

I paddled for 90 minutes on the river section of the K&A down stream of Newbury. The craft is very susceptible to wind and once it starts turning, it is difficult to bring it back on course despite rapid “panic” paddling on one side. I tried a sweeping type slalom stoke but to no effect. The secret seems to be to concentrate and not let it swing too far off the straight and narrow.

I can also manage of reasonable J stoke on this model but I still loose a lot of momentum bring it round. This will however be a lot safer through the Savernake tunnel rather than risking a switch. I have entered the Waterside series with two main objectives: 1. To complete the four events. 2. Not to make too bigger fool of myself!

I hope people find the pictures interesting and I am of course open to frank and honest feedback and advice.

Waterside 2010, bring it on!

THE ORIGINAL MACROS KEVLAR HULL







STAGE ONE CONVERSION









SEAT, FOOTREST AND BOYANCY

[Eliza Dolittle]

Looking good.

the threaded stud pointing up from the bottom inside of the hull.

You can buy these from Marsport and glass them in them yourself. Though since you have found her susceptible to the wind you may wish to play with the trim first. How did you decide where to put the seat and footrest?

[OldNick]

Sorry for the delay in replying regarding how I determined the seat and footrest locations but I was waiting for the K&A to thaw so I could get some pics. ‘Panic’ training for the Waterside series is in full swing and I managed to do Hungerford to Newbury yesterday.

To get the initial position, I simply measured the Macros hull against my Jaguar K1 and put the seat and footrest in the same place. As I have pushed the sides of the hull out to improve stability it has increased the rocker slightly. I’m not sure if this is a good thing or not as although some straight line stability is lost, it is a bit more manoeuvrable which is handy for paddling upstream.

If anyone spots me during the Waterside, I would welcome any feedback or advice regarding paddling style. Specifically some fundamentals such as:

1. Where should the paddle enter the water?
2. How high up the shaft should the lower hand be in relation to the water?
3. Does leaning forward/backward make any difference?
4. How does “edging” work? Does one lean the boat towards the paddling side or away (Liz?)

I think I reached a milestone in terms of K1 to C1 conversion. Anyone got any ideas regarding progression to a next stage?

Macros C1 paddling:

[michielv]

Hi all,

I came across this forum and thread and really love the idea of converting a kayak to a C1. As it is, I toyed with this idea a while ago but abandoned it at first when I had the chance to buy myself a cheap sprint canoe (a Csepel Delta, copy obviously). Although I have paddled a lot of kayaks I really could not (and still can not) stay upright in it so I figured I needed a stable training boat. Here is a little description (in Dutch) and some pictures of what I have done so far: http://www.kanoforum.nl/forum/index.php/topic/3327/last and http://www.kanoforum.nl/gallery.php?AlbumID=377. Unfortunately the weather is too cold to work now (I have to work outside and my resin won't set at near freezing temperatures).

As soon as weather improves I plan to finish my solo canoe and hopefully start working on a marathon C1, probably a conversion of a touring kajak. I'm not sure if the model is available in the UK but back when I started out paddling (early '80-ies) the standard kajak to get started in (especially for youth paddlers) was the SK, quite similar to the current Danish touring kajaks (I wouldn't be surprised if it was a knockoff of an old Struer sprint kayak model). The boat looks a lot like the Struer Swift (http://www.struerkajak.com/Internationa ... 56%29.aspx) and I wondered if it would make a good conversion? It does have a very round hull (so low initial stability but high secondary stability) and is 5.20m long, 51cm wide. As a kayak this boat is really stable, as a C1 (especially in a high kneeling position) it will be a bit less so but then again, a bit of a challenge should be fun, right?

Cheers and thanks for the motivation to go ahead with these crazy plans!

Cheers,

Michiel

[Eliza Dolittle]

Hi Nick,
Long boats like K1s, sea kayaks and WWRs can be edged away from the turn to assist turning. Whilst sitting upright, put your weight onto your right butt cheek and the boat will turn to the left as you paddle forwards. To turn to the right put your weight on the left butt cheek. By edging the boat you increase the waterline length on that side and so the boat tends to turn away from it. It depends on hull shape and so different boats have different responses, short fat playboats turn towards the edge.(Just to confuse people!)
Regarding technique I'd pick the brains of characters who posted on the "Sit 'n' switch vs J thread" http://www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=51736. Especially "Hackworth" who paddles Sit and Swich C2.
If you want to look at technique for paddling a high kneeling C1 then Craig (Jonny Bravo) has posted some video on the Marsport DW blog site. He is building a stable high kneeling C1, though with probably a few more resources than you.

Michiel,
Your old Struer knockoff K1 should be OK to try out as a C1. Nick's first attempt was with an old touring boat. I have paddled an Espada K1 in the high kneeling position and found it more stable than the Delta.

[michielv]

Michiel,
Your old Struer knockoff K1 should be OK to try out as a C1. Nick's first attempt was with an old touring boat. I have paddled an Espada K1 in the high kneeling position and found it more stable than the Delta.

Hi Eliza,

I guess older K1 models like the Ranger etc. will be a lot more stable than the Delta. In fact, I am not sure I should keep it (the Delta). Sure, it is a nice boat but right now I can't even keep the boat upright (it is perfectly balanced though, it's my lack of technique and balance).

So I guess I'll be on the lookout for another boat to convert then. Let's hope I can actually convince my wife that this is really necessary, for whatever reason. ;-)

[Hackworth]

Especially "Hackworth" who paddles Sit and Swich C2

Ho Ho - no expert me...

But here are a few things we try to bear in mind:

1) Try to have the paddle enter as far forward as you can without leaning or straining. I use my toes as a benchmark, though this will be different for different people/boats

2) At the end of the stroke try to pull the paddle out of the water early, by the time your elbow passes your hip - otherwise it's inefficient, and you also pull the boat down into the water

3) Try to make the stroke straight back - i.e. don't folow the shape of the boat or you will make it turn away from the paddle more, which is what you're trying to avoid

4) Top hand about level with your nose in the power phase

5) Don't lean forward and backward in the stroke. A slight forward lean, drop the paddle side shoulder a little as the paddle enters the water, then pull back with a modest shoulder/torso twist. Don't make the boat plunge with the violence of the movement - it should all be really smooth and easy.

6) Edging works well, but the best way to catch deviations from the straight and narrow is anticipation and a couple of extra strokes that side. Although I said pull straight above, obviously if you want the boat to go away from the paddle more you can follow the shape of the boat, put in a pitch stroke, or J stroke or whatever

7) Following in from 6) if you're far off line it's often better to put in one real correction than strain with 20 hard paddle strokes on one side

8) Remamber to bear down with the top hand in the power stroke

9) Get a clean catch at the beginning of the stroke. A lot of burbling and swooshing and splashing in the power phase means you're pulling on air, not water and that's a big waste of energy.

10) Bear in mind that wind combined with trim can have a HUGE effect on direction. If you're weight is backwards (i.e. bow up) and you're paddling into a stiff diagonal wind, then that's going to be hard

11) When assessing the wind, remember to mentally add your forward speed!

12) Lower hand - interesting, this seems to be a matter of personal preference! I have mine about a hand's width clear of the water to get a slightly longer stroke

If I think of more, I'll post

H

[OldNick]

Wow, a lot to concentrate on. I think I already do some of this instinctively, but that edging lark is absolutely brilliant!

Now I know the science, I been exaggerating the technique (nearly fell in a few times!) and I can really see how it effects the boat. By deliberately leaning away from the paddle I can get considerably more strokes in a one side before needing to switch.

If the boat starts to veer, I can increase the effect of a sweep stroke by leaning towards the paddle side. However, Hackworth is right (is that twice now!!) “if you're far off line it's often better to put in one real correction than strain with 20 hard paddle strokes on one side”. Sometimes I run out of canal before I can pull her round and have to resort to a (panic) backward paddle stroke. (I then scratch my nose or something and nonchalantly pretend I meant to do it, as you never know when someone may be watching)

Anyway, great advice, many thanks to all.

[michielv]

I played canoepolo for nearly 20 years and one of the things we did (propably still do) was holding the ball in one hand, ready to throw, paddle in the other hand and keep the boat straight (still going forward) by edging. I don't know if you ever paddled a polo kayak but these things turn on a dime so if you can keep that going straight you know how to edge a boat. BTW: a polo kayak reacts more like a slalomboat, the opposite of long racing/touring kayaks.

Just a thought though: wouldn't it be easier to always edge a boat and use a relatively mild J-stroke to go forward? Because my j-stroke is not really good yet ;)

[Chris Bolton]

Following up on Hackworth's 6) and 7), the important thing is to make sure the boat is moving the way it's pointing. It's quite possible to have the boat pointing (say) 3 degrees to your offside, which means it's continually trying to turn further - so most of your J's are wasted and the forward drag is increased. Once you get it running straight, it's faster and easier to keep it there.

Similarly, if you edge it to initiate a turn, you need to edge the other way at the end of the turn, to get it straight again.

Have fun!

Chris