Playboat to C1 *Conversion*

[Niall Evans]

I have decided to convert and old play boat (a S6X 185 to be precise) into a C1. Only problem is I really haven't a clue what I'm doing, which in my mind makes it so much more fun.

anyway. I was wondering if there's a guide somewhere that could be of some help? and does anyone know were I can get some cheap foam?

Cheers
Niall

[Mission]

http://c1freestyle.blogspot.com/2007/06/freestyle-c1-outfitting.html
There is one page about it

http://experiencebliss-stick.blogspot.com/2009/08/team-bliss-sticks-dan-burke-c-1.html
Dan burke's very fancy looking outfitting, this takes time so probably not the best plan for your first conversion but looks very cool.

Everyone does it slightly differently, your best bet is just ask a few paddlers to let you look in your boat. I can send you some photos of a few conversions if you want and im sure most other people would do the same if asked.

As regards foam, it can be difficult and expensive to get your hands on. What I do is go to a local factory that makes foam and rummage through their skip which is a real cheap method of getting it but no good ig there isnt one near you!

[TheKrikkitWars]

C-Boats have two good guides (Clicky & Clicky).

AS watersports have the cheapest foam in the UK at £7.50 a square foot. (you'll need 2-5 square feet depending on exactly what you choose to do.) I reccomend getting a cheap bread knife, a small surform and plenty of glue before hand, specifically Solvent Based "Evostick IMPACT" glue you usually have to ask for it specially at places like B&Q as its kept locked up.

[freddie]

Get the evostick in a spray can, it makes life so much easier, and less sticky in the wrong places.

[TheKrikkitWars]

Get the evostick in a spray can, it makes life so much easier, and less sticky in the wrong places.

I'd reccomend having both the paint on and the spray on... Spray on is good for making saddles, gluing foam mats to the bottom of the boat etc. anything that needs adheasion over a wide area. The paint on is better for making smaller/awkward shapes like bulkheads and backrests which need to hold under a lot of pressure, as well as for working on the inside of the boat where the spraycan just drys up if held upside down.

(Protip: regardless of which you use, make sure you keep the time your head spends in the boat whilst lining up pieces to be glued to a bare minimum; else you'll feel very woozy indeed.)

[andya]

Thanks for all the links guys, interesting reading.

I picked up the Acrobat 270 C1 conversion from on here recently, and its a really, really tidy job. However those links have given me inspiration to look at improvements.

Thank you, and keep C1 convert the ideas coming!

[davebrads]

I picked up the Acrobat 270 C1 conversion from on here recently, and its a really, really tidy job.

Would that be Chris Bolton's? He has done some tidy conversions, using a piece of plastic guttering running between the front and rear foam to make the attachment points as I remember.

[andya]

I picked up the Acrobat 270 C1 conversion from on here recently, and its a really, really tidy job.

Would that be Chris Bolton's? He has done some tidy conversions, using a piece of plastic guttering running between the front and rear foam to make the attachment points as I remember.

Not sure, this one has a metal rod in the centre. Picked it up from Seth Ashworth, not sure where he got it.

[davebrads]

I'm pretty sure Chris's was yellow. Looks pretty useful though.

[Niall Evans]

thanks guys. I now have all the materials I need (I think anyway) so im going to start my conversion later today. ill post some pictures up when im done.

p.s. what is the best way to install a harness/seat straps into the boat?

[davebrads]

what is the best way to install a harness/seat straps into the boat?

The way I have seen it done is to run something under the foam at both ends that runs under the saddle, and then use that as a bottom anchor, see Andy's link. This is using a metal bar. As I said, I think Chris Bolton used a piece of plastic guttering, which he put in upside down. For the top anchor points in my boat I was able to use the existing holes which used to bolt the kayak seat in, but you might have to be prepared to drill some more holes.

I think Big Dog are marketing a conversion kit, which consists of a carbon fibre moulded sheet with mounting points fitted. I don't know how well it works though. My set up uses a plastic conversion kit that I think was made by dagger. The only problem is, if I hit something quite hard, the whole thing slides forward and I have to get out and move it all back. I suppose I should take it out and bond it in with some evo stick, but I never think to do anything until the next time I hit the bottom.

[TheKrikkitWars]

thanks guys. I now have all the materials I need (I think anyway) so im going to start my conversion later today. ill post some pictures up when im done.

p.s. what is the best way to install a harness/seat straps into the boat?

The C1 community in the US now favours re-cutting the foam of the central pillars to allow fitment of a Liquid Logic hull stiffener then building the saddle on top of it; plastic guttering or uPVC fenceposts have also found favour as cheaper DIY alternatives to this; you can cut/drill holes for bolts/looped ends of straps in all three quite easily.

[Chris Bolton]

Would that be Chris Bolton's? He has done some tidy conversions, using a piece of plastic guttering running between the front and rear foam to make the attachment points as I remember.

I had a yellow Acrobat 300 - can't remember who I sold that to - but my teal green Acro 270 (with plastic guttering) reverted to kayak once I moved on to a Redline and is still in the family. For that I used 2 lengths of wood on edge (about 70mm by 10mm) shaped to the bottom of the boat, one each side of the foam, and a wooden wedge which fitted under the foam and is bolted between the wood. The seat is made with layers of foam, but with 2 thin sheets of ply between the layers, spaced so that they fit between the bits of wood. Ready solid and has lasted very well, but a tad heavy. I'll try to take some photos.

Chris

[andya]

Hi Chris, thanks for the post, you have sparked my interest.

I've just got the Acrobat 270 C1, but we also have a Redline in the family that I'm sure could be persuaded to be outgrown ... if ....

.. the Redline makes a much better C1 than the Acro? I'm thinking the edges and planing hull of the Redline would make a better river runner. Or was the Redline back deck to low (for 80kg).

[Chris Bolton]

Andy,

I found the Acro 270 a little bit too narrow for stability and comfort. The Redline is a really nice river running C1. I've used it on the rivers like Etive, Ogwen, Kent, Guil, Guisane (upper and lower) and it's been brilliant. I also ran the Grand Canyon in it - on that size of water it did tend to backloop on hitting the bigger stoppers, until I learned to lean forward. I'm about 75kg. I'll see if I can take some photos of the outfitting - the way I've done it there is nothing permanent which would stop the boat going back to being a kayak.

Chris

[andya]

Cheers Chris, appreciate your sharing experiences.

I'll see how I get on over the winter with the Acro C1, but already have my my eye on a certain Redline ...

[Chris Bolton]

Some pictures of my Redline conversion - for andya and anyone else.

See earlier post for a general description. This boat is set up for river running, not playboating. Some people may say there's not enough restraint, but I've never come out of it when I wanted to roll, including some reasonably turbulent places. I could, however, get out very efficiently once when pinned underwater. The top of straps are bolted using the seat bolt holes. The yellow loop in the centre is for a drink bottle.

The knee supports are glued to a piece of carpet tile which is fixed under the wooden longitudinals

Small triangles of foam glued to the shell to stop sideways movement. Aluminium strip to hold the airbags in and to tie gear to, bolted into the footrest holes (Smaller size, countersunk bolts to avoid damaging paddle shaft on the heads). End of wooden wedge visible, and bolt to hold it in. All the woodwork is coated with polyester resin.

The seat and the knee fittings were made to be moved forward and back until I found the right balance - which is about 10cm forward of the kayak seat. I only had ever problems with the stern catching once, and that was due to my own technique, not the boat. Anything not clear, please ask. This set-up has been very solid, no issues at all in about 8 years.

Chris

[geordiekez]

Quick question for Chris; on your timber rails conversion, what have you used to hold the saddle in place? I'm having problems getting mine to stay put.

Cheers, kez

[Chris Bolton]

Hi Kez,

In the bottom picture, can you see there are two bits of plywood sandwiching the middle bit of foam, at the bottom? They are glued to the foam, so I have wooden outside to the bottom of the seat. Then I drilled a hole right through the wooden rails and that bottom of the seat, and put a bolt through it.

The benefit is that if you want to move the seat, you just take the bolt out, move the seat, drill a new hole and put it back.

Chris

[geordiekez]

Grand, thanks for that, not sure why I couldn't work that one out!

Cheers, Kez